Travels with Robert and Sue, Gonzo-style

Sunday, February 03, 2013

2012- Portugal, back into Spain.....


Evora...where the Romans (Diana's Temple above)  meet the Gothics in the below castle...and then back to the Celts, seen further along this post! The pictures really tell it all....but check out the UNESCO World Heritage link for more detail how this area seemed to be a hub of celebration. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/361/   Just a mention about these links to the UNESCO website....they have the full description of these sites as well as pictures and videos.   Hope you take the time to explore some of them! 
The museum in Evora is excellent....excavated from Roman times, even including sarcophagii! 

95 megalith stones from 7000 years ago, overlooking Evora about 5 kms. away. 
And yes, that is Robert closely examining a giant plith for fossils.   Perfectly shaped, wouldn't you say?
Surrounding the 95 standing stones are acres of cork forests....you can see the stripped off bark in the bottom half of these trees.
Sintra...after a lovely drive from Evora, we skirted past Lisbon and on to Sintra.    Now this is a place we'd revisit.....check out the above video, making sure to click on "full screen" as it is a YouTube production!
  The below map of the castle only shows a tiny portion of the full park which protects and surrounds both the castle and palace and stretches out to the Atlantic Ocean.
A World Heritage site surrounded by such natural beauty and hiking opportunities...
 http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/723/
This fantastic video really shows the blustery rawness of the castle area....exposed to the gales of the Atlantic, it was so atmospheric.   Listen to the winds howl!

Arrrgh, I be a pirate!!
Climbing up the ramparts, we could then look back to the castle walls we had been on, with the town of Sintra far below.
Couldn't get enough of this wonderful place! 

I just loved this castle, especially how it was built right on volcanic outcrops as seen above. 
Above is the water system over several wells and irrigation channels. 
Stunning and opulent Palace, once Moorish but then renewed into some Romantic architecture......



Our greeter.....!!



 Lisbon....gritty city, accessed by a 40 minute train ride from Sintra.   We would definitely recommend staying outside Lisbon and doing a day visit there.  The castle, Roman ruins, waterfront are within short walks of each other, just up from a pedestrian area with many bars and restaurants.   And yes, another World Heritage site:
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/263
 

Below is a video of Lisbon castle and camera obscura......we had a very interesting display inside the room where a young woman twisted and flipped the 2 wands which move the camera about.   We were able to see reflections of all of Lisbon, with the harbor especially pretty.
Is this Sue with a snake charmer?   No, enjoying a lovely sounding flute player whose sound echoed throughout the castle....complete with his family of cats!

Above, a small baptistery in the castle, below, local aquatic specialists....errrr, fishermen?!
Video of Roman theater....uncovered during the 1785 earthquake....extraordinary peak into 2000 years ago.
Walking throughout the castle opened up one interesting area after another, with the cloister always gleaming light into the surrounding rooms.  One knight rests here comfortably....

For me, the best part of these castles is always the kitchen, the heart of the action as it is today....check out these great stone carved sinks, tables and tiled chimney vent.    The video below shows it in its entirety......especially the water system with modern children playing in it.


Video of castle kitchen...make sure you click on "full screen".

Porto....just a stunning little city, so easy to explore and access.  A UNESCO site....
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/755
We strolled down to the Douro River and across the pedestrian bridge shared by a commuter train line....

Our studio apartment right in the heart of "old Porto" was a perfect home base for us....and enjoyed some lovely meals with Sandra and Verna, including this "home-cooked" one. We spent a few days exploring Porto together....below is a typical original part of the old area.

 Amazing train station...this video really shows the extent of the blue ceramic tiled decoration.
One day we arranged for a river cruise called the 7 bridges tour.  Here we are enjoying the cruise, just before a glass of wine, thanks to Sandra and Verne! 
 What a river cruise....seeing 6 bridges...
Stunning architecture throughout the whole city...very accessible and walkable.


Sue with the Douro River and Porto beyond...
Port wine tasting...so many Port Houses to choose from....steeped in centuries of history!  The following pictures illustrate the basic process of gathering the grapes, transporting them down the river by boat and then being aged in the barrels of these port houses. 



Cheers...we are happy port tasters!!

Douro Valley vinyards...stunning drive up the south side of the Douro River to our lovely Casa Cimiera B&B in the tiny town of Valenca de Douro....overlooking the river both ways, run by a family who had farmed these vinyards for generations.  So wonderful to share home-cooked feasts with the other guests...a delight to hear the mix of Spanish, Portugese, French and English....over vast amounts of wine!

The next day we drove even further east, leaving the Douro River and heading overland to the Coa River valley which separates Portugal and Spain.  We crossed the hiking trail that runs the whole north-south portion of Portugal.
Coa Valley rock art....a surprising disappointment as the actual museum was huge and cavernous with little in it. As well, we did not schedule a visit to the caves as as it was hugely expensive!  
Here's the UNESCO link which describes it a bit: http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/866
Guimaraes....another lovely UNESCO World Heritage site-  http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1031   The below video shows the old town square with a beautiful cathedral getting ready for Easter weekend. And yes, those are some delicious pastries!  Do you think we had a sampling?
Guimaraes square....such a people place!
On to Santiago...back into Espagna.....!  Bagpipes greeted us as we walked with many pilgrims into the square in front of the cathedral....Easter weekend and Santiago was a mecca for so many people. 

The pilgrim's hiking sticks....and the shell which guided the pilgrims along the Camino de Santiago.   http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/669
 The Camino de Santiago...the Way of the Pilgrim...



We met up with many pilgrims....!
A joyous Easter weekend...witches and celebrations...a strange brew of Celtic and Christian traditions.

Couldn't resist a picture of this quaint book shop....
Cathedral greeters....can I take your peecture, meester?!
And midnite services....a hush falls....the organ plays and the monks prepare the swinging incense burner.


On to Lugo....and its 3rd century Roman walls.....http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/987
We walked the whole perimeter of Lugo on top of these walls....admiring the old city inside as well as the new part outside. 

A little chocolate afterwards to sustain us! 
The below picture really shows the curve of Lugo's Roman wall.....with a beautiful garden below....
We spent a wet day in Oviedo, walking about the old town trying to stay dry, part of a rich Kingdom of Asturias history.  The pre-Romantic cathedral below is just outside Oviedo.   The link to this site has an extensive write-up which outlines the history of the northern part of Spain. 
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/312
What a spectacular drive along the north of Spain's coast!  Snow capped mountains just inland, huge viaducts for the expressway and on to the Altamira Caves, a visit well worth the side trip.  Fascinating to explore these caves after seeing the Lascaux caves of France....  http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/310


An ingenious and interesting switch of car rentals between Biarritz, France and San Sebastien, Spain....et voila!  We are into France!! 

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home