2015 CAMINO- ST JEAN PIED DE PORT TO BURGOS
From Madrid on March 28- 3 busses to St Jean Pied de Port, France-
Leave Madrid (7:00 am)- Zaragoza -( 11:45), Pamplona (2:30) arrive SJPP at 4:30
St Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) at the left of the above picture-accueil (welcome) in tourist office very warm, efficient, loads of helpful information especially sheet listing services of all villages along the Camino-available for you!!
Refugio Municipal- 8€-Dorms ok, not very clean in small, limited washrooms/showers
Grocery SuperMercado- groceries for dinner and lunch-
Click on the YouTube video to see a view to the Pyrenees from SJPP.
For all the YouTube videos, click on "large screen" icon.
After getting groceries for the next few days, enjoyed a plate of salad for dinner with this lovely view of the river and church....yes, that is the bridge you see at the beginning of the movie "The Way"
March 29- St Jean Pied de Port to ValCarlos- 12 kms.- mountain route closed. Missed seeing the Alb. Orisson on this mountain route. Below picture shows the river and bridge with the valley route to the right and the mountain route straight ahead.
Val Carlos- Aub. Luzaide- 10€- no breakfast, great kitchen, lots of people cooking up their dinners with groceries from nearby stores, nice washrooms and bunk area. Nice view to the mountains from this Albergue, seen below.
turismo@luzaide-valcarlos.net
Had 4 kgs. of gear taken by Jacotrans.com to Roncasvalles as rough weather ahead (7€)
Met Acier and wife from Basque country
March 30- 23 kms. Val Carlos to Espinal through Roncasvalles
Rain held off until we got into the wooded area, gentle hiking until the 5 km mark, then steep into the woods. Rain started, mud sliding down the path, then winds which started to howl with sleet and hail being hurled at us as we approached the Puerto Ibenata Pass. The story of Roland, Charlemagne's doomed knight, took place here. And look what awaited us at the top! Here I am holding on for dear life against the blasts of wind.
This is where the mountain pass joins up with the Val Carlos valley route....no wonder the uppermost mountain route was closed! This is at 1200 meters with the mountain route topping out at 1500 meters.
The monks at Roncasvalles Abbey said they had never had such a severe winter, lasting so long into the Spring. This cloistered courtyard was completely filled with snow all Winter...this is the remaining drift.
Warmed up at Roncasvalles Abbey, picked up transported luggage.
Another 8 kms on to Espinal- Hostel Rural Haizea- 15€ includes breakfast
Pilgrim's meal good (11€) and met up with our Basque friends for a glass of vino tinto.
March 31- Espinal to Zubiri- 16 kms.
After the tempest yesterday woke to a beautiful day...what a sunrise!
Unexpected snack bar along the Way.....and you could trade "stuff" for "stuff".
Zubiri- Alb. Rio Arga Ibara- 15€ including breakfast, here is our view from the Albergue balcony over the Rio Arga looking back to the Camino
After the tempest yesterday woke to a beautiful day...what a sunrise!
Unexpected snack bar along the Way.....and you could trade "stuff" for "stuff".
Grocery stores and bars aplenty- met Val Carlos people there
Washrooms big and clean, had front bunk room overlooking river- nice to listen to the gushing water all night
Laundry done by hosts- 7 Euros
Fantastic kitchen - had 14 people around huge table after a cooked meal-paella, different salads, etc. MUCH fun! The Brazilians and Spanish people competed for "who could make the best dish"!
5 of us voted for "the best"...and it came out a tie!! Hmmm....a bit of a fix, I'd say....
Fantastic kitchen - had 14 people around huge table after a cooked meal-paella, different salads, etc. MUCH fun! The Brazilians and Spanish people competed for "who could make the best dish"!
April 1- Zubiri to Pamplona- 21 kms
This little fella wanted to make friends with me....whoa back, Jack!! And MANY more friends came by to greet us!!
Approaching Pamplona....
This beautiful arched portal is the main entrance to Pamplona, called the Puerto Frances. Many a battle was fought here over the centuries as Spain was invaded by numerous conquering peoples.
Below, a beautiful church on the way to the old city of Pamplona....
And here is Pamplona's City Hall....the running of the bulls crosses right through this square.
Hotel Eslava- 27€ -excellent breakfast and shared private room
(Easter weekend busy...everything booked)
Great to spend time with Acier and his wife again, seen in the above photo. They were taking a break from their family of 2 children....blessed to have both sets of their parents looking after the little ones!
Here is an interesting BBC article about their language, Basque:
http://www.bbc.com/travel/story/20170719-the-mysterious-origins-of-europes-oldest-language
April 2- Pamplona to Uterga- 19 kms- tough ascent over 400 meter ridge to Alto del Pérdon
Several people fell on steep, rocky descent and had to quit Camino
Below picture looks back towards Pamplona and beyond, to the snow-capped Pyrenees from where the Camino Frances starts.
Only 700 kms to go!! Buen Camino!!
Beware the steep descent to Uterga (seen in below map)....many people lost their footing coming down from the Alto Perdone....and abandoned the Camino.
Last look at the Alto Perdone....truly a memorable place on the Camino.
Nice view from this rest area, looking back up to the Alto Perdone.
Below picture looks back towards Pamplona and beyond, to the snow-capped Pyrenees from where the Camino Frances starts.
The significance of the Alto Perdone is outlined below....now, the wind turbines dominate this ridge.
Beware the steep descent to Uterga (seen in below map)....many people lost their footing coming down from the Alto Perdone....and abandoned the Camino.
Uterga- Alb. Camino del Pérdon - 10€- no breakfast at all- locked up in morning (coffee machine outside)
Washrooms fine
Pilgrim's meal absolutely excellent - 11€- large group sharing fun, GREAT dessert!
Walk from this beautiful church to Puente de la Reina gorgeous.....finally enjoyed a beautiful sunrise long shadow. In the distance you can see Obanos.
Puente de la Reina- Alb. Municipal Padres Reparadores- 5€
Good kitchen, good grocery store-closed early on Sunday- did community stir-fry meal with 3 others-Kim, Chris, Sandy) along with a great bottle of Rioja wine , nice airy dorms, washrooms excellent, near church. Nice exploring this special town....here is the local population getting ready for their own parade later that week.
In front of the church.....
Rolling countryside, deep in the Rioja region
Love these gorgeous arched bridges....
Making friends again....as Estella comes into view (above)
Romanesque-style church....and then a view to the river running through Estella....
Lovely stairs up to the back of the Estella church which has different architectures....flying buttresses and small rose windows....then around to the front of the church to enjoy some music....
and pay homage to this patron of the bells
Stayed at Albergue Iglesia Parroquial de San Miguel- donation (5-10€)
-volunteers extremely welcoming and provided nice breakfast- small kitchen well used-
Washrooms segregated, ok
Beds very close together, ventilation bad
April 5 and 6- Estella to Los Arcos- 22 kms
So true....wine flowing from the Fuente de Vino just outside of Estella! The adjoining monastery is one of the oldest along the Way, from 958 AD....and became a hopital in the 11th century. Here I am, before sunrise, having a taste of the red local wine. Nice...made the walking so easy!! 
Walking companions Patricia and Keith enjoyed this too!
This video shows the beauty of an early morning sunrise....worth it to get up and going....right....? ;-)
My walking buddies for a few days are sheltered by the trees....a dog followed us for almost 3 kms.
9.5€, breakfast another 3.5€
Upstairs kitchen not well-used because of propane stoves- well equipped though
Took a rest day here- Nice town to relax in, lots happening near the square. Nearby church very nice..
Party time in the Los Arcos piazza....
Getting ready for the Semana Sacrada parade.....
April 7- Los Arcos to Viana- 18 kms.
This stretch of the Camino is one of the prettiest as you approach the Rioja wine-growing region.
This stretch of the Camino is one of the prettiest as you approach the Rioja wine-growing region.
A lovely interlude of stone monuments, all with notes underneath them. Would've been nice to spend an hour here, reading all the "messages in a bottle of time".
An interesting hobbitt house along the Way....no one inside though!
Now, the fun begins....the wine-growing region of La Rioja interspersed with blossoming almond, cherry and apple trees. I never stopped loving each and every wine field as we walked past...and of course, always looking forward to that nice bottle of red Rioja wine at the end of our walking day.
Unbelievable that these wine fields were established by the Romans almost 2000 years ago....nectar of the gods. http://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/5793/
Viana is a beautiful town with gorgeous monuments, stone terrace on top of cliff looking towards the mountains. A tribute to the infamous Borgias greeted us as we entered Viana.
Met a nice group of people and had a great chat while enjoying a glass of wine while sunning ourselves in the town square.
Alb. Peregrinos (10€) right beside ruins of original church and terrace. Fantastic kitchen and we had a memorable community meal which 6 of us cooked. Natalie, Jerry, Archangel, Korean couple.
Pasta pesto made up by Archangel who was walking from Italy, to Santiago, then south through Portugal. He walks the Camino for 2 months every year. I am inspired. The rest of us made up the salad, baguette and poured the wine.....and ate heartily.
Cheers to our efforts!
Cheers to our South Korean friends who shared their sushi with us....they brought the seaweed wraps all the way from home!
Watched the sunset while drinking wine with many other pilgrims- magical time, most memorable.
Washrooms fine, bunks only 6 per room
Grocery store is Supermercado...open only at 6:00 pm....well stocked for the hungry pilgrims!
Approaching Logrono....
April 8- Navarette going through Logrono- 23 kms.
Logrono is a busy town, now in La Rioja, the next province from Navarette.....not well signed going through. Watch carefully, ask locals for help. One fellow grabbed my arm and steered me through one of the round-abouts.
Helped Maria who had hurt herself badly on Alto de Perdonne descent . Saw her initially at Uterga Alb. on April 2.
Flagged down police car and asked them to get her to a private Alb. where she could sort herself out and go to the hospital ( a week later, I found out she was going town to town by bus)
This huge wall mural caught my eye. I swear that it is a picture of Archangel who we shared a meal with in Viana. Check out the pilgrim's stamps.
A sign just to make sure we are on track out of Logrono....and then a beautiful park full of families enjoying picnics, fishing and volleyball.
The below are the foundations of an original hospital from the 14th century....
Ended at Navarette- Alb. La Casa Peregrino- 10€
Had dinner in lounge in front of fireplace cooked for us by guest hospiterola from Italy (above photo) who sang grace for us (below video). 7€ and breakfast- 3€. Tasty pesto pasta and great salad. Natalie and Jerry there from Viana. Jerry nursing severe blisters.
Lots of wine, No baguette , yoghurt provided,
*****Pilgrim's meal has 3 courses with choices.
Dorm and Washrooms fine, laundry wash-up area and lines outside windows.
Bring clothespins and folding hangers.
April 9 - Navarette to Najera- 21 kms.
Rolling terrain to Najera where I spent a lovely rest day to help my Achilles tendon (April 10) which is slowly healing with lots of TLC. I stop every hour, take off my boots and socks and massage the calf and tendon. Keeps away the blisters and I can keep on trekking....
through to Ventosa, an "art village"....great cafe con leche and spotted these cyclists powering up to the village. Definitely worth the side-trip....
Ever wonder what happens to the ancient vines? Here you go!
Another wine distillery in the Rioja region....I stopped to crush grapes with my feet!
Inspiring peregrino along the Way.....with all the symbols...gourd, pole, shell, pouch, sandals....nice.
What a view to the northern mountains...fully covered in snow from the severe Winter of 2015.
Halfway between Logrono and Burgos....Najara!
Excellent Alb. Puerta de Najera on far side of river in the "old town" area of Najera (don't stop in first part of "new" town) - lots of choice for restaurants, bars- . Bought food for 2 days as I stayed here for a rest day to heal my Achilles tendon injury, Sophie staying for 5 days.
Used microwave to prepare food, made salad, have fruit and yoghurt, bread for the next few days.
I went to say Hi to friends in the Municipal Albergue....very packed with triple-tiered bunks for close to 90 people in one large room, tiny kitchen. Glad I paid a few more euros for the "private albergue".
I went to say Hi to friends in the Municipal Albergue....very packed with triple-tiered bunks for close to 90 people in one large room, tiny kitchen. Glad I paid a few more euros for the "private albergue".
2nd night treated myself to a meal out with fellow peregrinos in the old town of Najera at El Emono where we enjoyed salad and fish.
April 11- Najera to Azofra- 6 kms. - 7€
Short walk today to help the tendon rest a bit more. Azofra a lovely old village with an excellent Alb. Municipal for 7 euros- good set up of private-style rooms, 2 beds and storage shelves.
The Camino tradition here goes back to Isabel de Azofra who in 1168 founded a Hospital for the pilgrims.
The Camino tradition here goes back to Isabel de Azofra who in 1168 founded a Hospital for the pilgrims.
Isabelle provided great music as Paola cooked up the stir fry we had sliced up!
Just the most beautiful start to the day as we walked out of Azorfra....above you can see a 14th century Celtic cross as Isabelle walks past it...and then the sun lit up the Camino and the sheltering hills.
I am a snail!!
Poppies starting to bloom...Spring is here...
Santa Domino de Calzada- Albergue Confradia del Santa- 7€- huge monastery with 229 beds- would be very busy when operating in high season....and with a kitchen on all 3 levels
Town nice to do a walkabout- very interesting legend about 12th century Santa Domingo and the chickens
Constant reminder of the legend of the white chickens....
Music in picnic area (Isabelle and amigo with her mandolin) and laundry flapping in the breeze.....the dog is barking, the rooster is crowing in this video....
......and the clucking of the ever-ready white chickens (which replace the ones in the church every 2 weeks....hmm....wonder what happens to the "old" chickens!!) made it fun
April 13- Santa Domingo de Calzada to Viloria de Rioja- 17 kms
Beautiful start to the day, walking out of St Domingo over one of the bridges he has commissioned for the pilgrims to use, nicely restored. For his charitable work on the Camino, he was made a saint.
Always surprises along the Way...obviously, this pilgrim got fed up with his boots! Lesson learned: use very sturdy boots, well broken in but not to this extent!!
Landscape changing as we leave the Rioja region....and into the Castilla de Leon province, the "bread basket of Spain". Will really miss the Rioja wine!! Only 555 kms to go!!
Steadily uphill over the far ridge, then a view to the west with these excellent signs to point the Way.
Viloria de Rioja- Refugio Acacio and Orietta- 7€
WiFi extra charge, no services, deserted village
Very peaceful BUT hosts not especially welcoming- rude to several guests including me! Said my French wasn't very good....so I spoke French only to a young fellow from France during dinner. He shared a map of an alternative route to Belorado...see tomorrow's adventure.
Dinner and breakfast- donation- gave 10 Euros- no choice- lentil soup and rice, salad, yoghurt and had breads and jams for breakfast
Sign in the washroom...
Sign in the washroom...
April 14- Viloria to Belorado- 12 kms
(alternative route into hills through Fresnena based on the young man's map! With "walking in silence" man and Gabriella)
(alternative route into hills through Fresnena based on the young man's map! With "walking in silence" man and Gabriella)
Belorado- Alb. Cuatro Cantones- 7€- very warm welcome
Average dorms and washrooms, got to a nice lower bunk in the corner...privacy!!
Surprising to see a swimming pool in a solarium, green space, chickens, geese,etc.
Below is the Belorado church. In front is the "El Corro" market area since King Alfonso's decree in 1116. This is supposedly the oldest market square in Spain.
Climbed up the hill behind the church to see the foundations of the Castillo which overlooks Belorado. Established during the reign of Alfonso III from 866-910.
Quite the view towards the next leg of the Camino....
Seems I am eating alot BUT....the clothes keep getting looser on me. What a great way to get fit....
April 15- Belorado to Villamonte de Orca- 18 Kms.
Hotel San Anton Badad
Exceptional Alb. in 15th c. Monastery- 5€ for large, airy dorm, pricier (8 euros) for smaller 4-person rooms .
Above picture shows the original entrance to the Monastery complete with moat. Below is the front of the monastery which overlooks the church below. Gorgeous lobby area and a very nice separate bar with roaring fireplace. Yes, they had a Canadian flag....was quite thrilled to see this!
The Camino passes between the church and the Monastery....seen above and below.
April 16- Villamonte de Orca to Agés- 17 kms through San Juan de Ortega-
Up, up, up to a ridge....spectacular views back to the east and down to Villamonte's church and monastery.
After climbing up to the ridge, a very long (at 12 kms.) and isolated stretch through flat fire road on top of the ridge.
Some very neat surprises....thank you, unknown peregrino!!!
Welcome turn-off for San Juan de Ortega....2 kms. to go.
Up, up, up to a ridge....spectacular views back to the east and down to Villamonte's church and monastery.
Some very neat surprises....thank you, unknown peregrino!!!
Another much shorter isolated stretch to Agés....a bit eerie in the woods but then came out on the hillside and a quick descent to Ages.
Alb. Taberna de Ages- 9€- bed only- offered package (21€) to include dinner and breakfast
No lounge, had to hang out in bar, big problem with another pilgrim who was in great medical distress-ambulance called and he was taken to Burgos
Overpriced, many pilgrims turning away
If you need to stay in Ages, go to the Albergue at the very start of the town.
*****Should've gone 3 kms further to Atapuerta- UNESCO site for Neolithic digs
Approaching Burgos....
April 17- Ages to Burgos- 24 kms
After the Atapuerca turn-off, walked between the sheep and a military training ground.
then over military training hilltop, blasted yet again by rain and wind as I posed by the cross.
Steep, wet downhill and starting to go past industries....quite a shock.
Took alternative route nut had alot mud until we got past the Burgos airport and into the outskirts of Burgos.
Long 4 km. walk along Almendran River with Nick, Grier and David, not really sure where to cross the river. Finally, the yellow arrow!! Steady into the old part of Burgos, spotting the cathedral. 320 kms!!
Here I am in 2014 on the western side of Burgos....the last bronze statue! Notice the size of my knapsack, towering over my head with my sleeping bag outside the knapsack, foolish girl that I was. In 2015, I had a much smaller sleeping bag at less than 1 kg. and half the size. As well, I cut back on various other articles. Total weight in 2015 was 7 kgs, about 16 pounds as opposed to 8 kgs in 2014. The big difference was the outer-bag for sleeping and ultra-light merino wool pyjamas which were my back-up clothing in case of a cold stretch on the Camino.
The Municipal Albergue is just to the right of me.
Right back to where I started last year, 2014....
To Municipal Alb.- totally renovated , nice setup complete with private light at each bunk.- 5€.
Laundry and kitchen facilities were great and very needed by many. A peregrino statue greeted us at the check-in area.
April 18 and 19- toured Burgos
Nice goodies to clean-up properly....and a great view from my balcony window....sat out here and enjoyed my salad dinners.
Ah, now there's a welcome sight!!
Stayed at Los Baracos Hôtel- 88€ for 2 nights...now, there's a shock after less than 10 euros each night.
A few peeks at my first luxury in 3 weeks...
Got bus ticket for Madrid at nearby bus terminal, went to good open air-type mercado and bought fruit, veg, yoghurt for next few days.
Sunday Mass - 11:00 followed by incredible bell chorus at noon...the saints on this cathedral would be thrilled. Have a listen!
Bronze seems to be the order of the day with excellent statues throughout the old city. Here's just a few: First, the general and his son!
My favourite couple who greeted me every day when I walked towards the cathedral from my hotel.
This couple was just a tad intimidating....!
And I liked this old gal...she was very friendly as she greets all peregrinos with her roasted chestnuts!! And I think a pretty happy face for me....320 kms. in 3 weeks with 2 rest days....I am pleased!
Buen Camino, todo! I will be back next year to meet up with this fellow below, the peregrino of the sore feet!
Must come back to see more of these beautiful puentes in Spain!!
http://ocio.lne.es/planes/noticias/nws-463783-los-10-puentes-mas-bonitos-espana.html
posted by Sue/Robert @ 5:13 PM
1 Comments:
Lots of great photos. A very social way to travel, eh?
Post a Comment
<< Home