After 6 wonderful weeks in Spain on the Costa del Sol, enjoying hikes and walks.....and wine and tapas!..... with a variety of friends who came to visit, headed north to Edinburgh. Stayed at the Holiday Inn Express again and organized my knapsack....a faithful friend from hundreds of kms. of walking these past 3 years. See my Camino Blog from 2015 for a picture of the contents: emergency and first aid stuff, extra clothing including new pairs of breathable rain pants and Vasque hiking boots, maps and notebook, personal stuff....15 pounds, Camino-style.
Edinburgh to Drymen- CityLink Bus at 8:30 to Glasgow (Buchanon Bus Station) from the Edinburgh Airport front entrance. Arrived 9:30 at Buchanon Bus station (missed a bus) so walked to the train station 5 minutes away. Took train to Balloch, then another bus through Gartocharn to Drymen. Arrived by 2:00 pm.
While waiting for the bus in Balloch, had an hour to have a cuppa tea in the Doghouse Lounge and take in the below view north to Loch Lomond.
Signs of Spring.....!!
Kip in the Kirk Hostel- Drymen
8 bunks (30 pounds) with full linens in the spacious hostel room- shared downstairs bathroom
3 private ensuite rooms on main floor
Excellent welcome snacks and full breakfast included
Buy food at Spar grocery store nearby, could cook up dinner at hostel. Back to the Clachan Inn which is 5 minutes away from the hostel, great gathering place and good pub food..."oldest licensed pub in Scotland"....;-) Nice to be back with my WHW walking buddies, Ian, Penny and Robin.
First craft-beer tasting of the trip....Tennent and Bellhaven Best this
evening! And never a shortage of whiskey.....
Above are Penny, Robin and Ian with myself, getting caught up on a year's worth of hiking, walking, travel stories....
Below is Frances who runs the Kip in the Kirk.....a very supportive and cheerful hostess!....and she had the Camino de Santiago certificate on display. Yes! Frances did the Camino in 2015 as well!! Did we have fun sharing stories about both our pilgrimages!
Here is my own certificate and passports on display at home...a great idea from Frances, a buen peregrino!
Stage 1 Dryman to Aberfoyle- 17 kms.
A beautiful day in sunshine! Below, a very important sign-post...where Penny and I turned off on our way over to Conic Hill and Loch Lomond on the West Highland Way last year, 2015. Ian has his own story about going over the top of Conic Hill in gale-force winds!
After 6 kms., stopped for a snack break and foot massage at the turn-off for a "walk through the forest" diversion....adding on a few kms. on the way to Aberfoyle.
Evidence along the RRW of the aqueduct system put in by the military during Queen Victoria's reign. Above is a well which leads into the aqueduct for repair and maintenance.
Above and below, storm damage from a hurricane last year...
Spring is starting to bloom in the Highlands!
Next 2 pictures show a length of above-ground aqueduct as well as a beautiful bridge....then it dives into the ground to keep the water flowing. Inspired by the Romans, no doubt! Think Pont de Gard in Provence, France.
Typical sign-post along Scotland's Great Walks....with a thistle theme.
Coming out of the forest and heading towards Aberfoyle. I could LIVE here in this glen and in this beautiful house...
Spring flowers greet us as we spot Aberfoyle beyond....what a beautiful day of walking this gorgeous landscape.
Even the pigs were happy to greet us!!
Who could resist the local bakeshop.....not Penny!! Sweets are SO welcome after 17 kms. on the trail.
Ah NICE!! Local craft beer including Ossian....now we're talking! ALWAYS a friendly face behind the bar counter....and couldn't be a better way to reward these thirsty walkers!
Can't decide? Let's do a taste test!!
Another special person has joined up with us for dinner, Trish! She was our tour guide for the Iona group last year....she kept my luggage while I walked the WHW and helped me plan some of my walking this year. A sweet and generous person....
I love the sign behind us...."NO Illicit Trading, Dealing or Gambling!!"
Stayed at the Craigmore Guest House in Aberfoyle. 45 pounds and look at this Scottish breakfast which is included....!!
Craigmore Guest House in Aberfoyle......highly recommended!!
Stage 2- Aberfoyle to Callander- 16 kms.
Daffodils are everywhere.....be prepared for many pictures of these beautiful flowers which festoon the Scottish landscape!! I love this picture as it has some early-blooming heather amongst the daffodils.
Above and below, on the forested and open hillside trail...time for a snack, I'd say!! It is not in your imagination that you'll seem to see much food and drink. It is the Scottish way!!!
Berry and fruit trees are in early bloom....so lovely, such nice surprises as we amble along.
Ha!! My new hiking boots and my camp thongs...Ha!!!! Do I see a little mud on my NEW rain-pants??! Of course! It's Scotland!!
Robin kept me on my toes with his "Scottish expression of the day"....with a test the next day! Here's a few samples : "Haud your weesht" (Keep quiet!) and "Gie it laldy" (go for it)
Lambing season was on....such a joy to see the little lambies gamboling in the fields! First prize if you can name this Scottish sweet.......!! (the picture below!)
A beautiful fishing pond along the way, Lochan Allt a Chip Dhuibh.
Ah yes....a memorable pub in Callander at the Dalgair House- 39 pounds for a room including breakfast, not so highly recommended. I had the Tartan special, Ian his whisky!
Nice enough breakfast but cannot get used to the blood pudding! The potato scones were a nice treat.
Stage 3- Callander to Strathyre- 15 kms.
Snow above on Ben Ledi and then a great snack and rest stop at the Strathyre National Forest camping and cottage area about 5 kms. north of Callender. This trail is fully paved and is part of the National Cycle Network route. Will return to this area for a week of rambling and exploring after completing the RRW.
Nice pano looking along Loch Lubnaig beside Callander (right) and ahead (left) towards the pass at Strathyre. Ian awaits patiently!
Amazing surprise after we passed this old road crossover.....I happened to look back, saw a hole in the wall and checked it out!
Swag from a geocaching site, cleverly hidden in the wall. Left a Canadian pin in the box....
Heading into the Highlands as the lochs narrow and the passes become tight....
Strathyre Inn (40 pounds which included breakfast) with wonderful views to the ridge....great pub meal and beer, excellent breakfast, all very welcoming for these long walkers. Below is a venison burger, a first taste for me. Yum....
Above, just a few samplings of the locally brewed whiskey.
Stage 4- Strathyre to Killin- 21 kms.
Beautiful old forests, protected in many areas but much evidence of intensive logging in Scotland....
On one side of the valley is the replanted forests, on the other side is the denuded slopes....much risk of erosion. The snow-covered mountains are to the west and beyond them is Loch Lomond and the West Highland Way. That is the east side of Ben Lomond which Robert and I hiked back in 2013.
View above along the RRW, through the narrow pass to Lochearnhead and Killin. The A84 is seen on the opposite slope and we are following the railway bed.
Well!! Well!!! Some sweets for the weary walkers...well, actually not too weary, just happy to be out tramping these beautiful hillsides! On the other side of the road is the road to Balquidder, resting place to the famous McGregor, Rob Roy.
Cheers!!!
After a steep climb from the valley, winding our way along the ridge past Lochearnhead....
Lochearnhead and Loch Earn seen below....stayed in this area for a week in 2008, doing day trips in a rented car.
Resting place of the McNabs in Killin with the Docharty Falls on the other side of this beautiful bridge. Stayed in Breadalbane House for 45 pounds. Nice enough and enjoyed a pub meal. Picked up food for the next day....need to microwave that broccoli!! ;-)
Stage 5- Killin to Ardtalnaig- 19.2 kms.
Heading up a long slope to the reservoir......
The dam for the reservoir can be seen beyond the sign. This provides electric power for much of the area.
Looking back to the reservoir and the dam on the opposite side, below picture. Stopped here for snacks and a bit of a break.....BUT snow flurries made us get up fast and get going!
Beautiful herd of Highland cattle as we came within sight of Loch Tay.
Lambing season in full swing everywhere!
Light rain on the north side as we headed down to Loch Tay and then the sun came out!!!
Below picture shows Beiin Glas with the Tarmachan Ridge to the left. Glorious with the snow cover gleaming in the sun!
Beautiful cemetery along the way with daffodils dancing in the breeze.....
Ardaltnaig glamping pods with the sunset beyond.... Phil and Rosemary the hosts and who invited me in for a glass of wine and their WiFi. 64 pounds which includes a tiny kitchen for cooking up food brought from Killin. Sunset view along Loch Tay from the front porch of the pod....magical.
A gorgeous breakfast brought in by Rosemary. And a few views of the inside of a armadillo-shaped glamping pod. It's all you really need!
Stage 6- Ardaltnaig to Aberfeldy- 24 kms.
After a steady climb up from Loch Tay, enjoyed exploring this bit of local interest, where plays were put on overlooking the Falls, seen in the below photo.
At the entrance to the tiny theater where many a person enjoyed plays being staged.
And the back entrance....and then continued on the RRW.
A grouse can be seen below....with Loch Tay beyond.
And its cache of eggs, accidently discovered right beside the RRW.
Last glimpse of Loch Tay and Ben Glas as we head east towards Aberfeldy.
Looks like these happy hikers are checking out a hiking map....right?
Long steady hike up to the top of Glen Moness and coming out at the Falls of Aberfeldy.
Many hanging waterfalls coming in from both sides of the Glen Moness to fill the roaring stream.
Where Robbie Burns composed his famous poem, the Birks (Birches) of Aberfeldy, near this cave .
With Robbie Burns as he gazes up Glen contemplating his next composition with his friends.
Here is a great video showing the hanging waterfalls, the cave, hiking track and sounds of the Glen. Just highlight and right-click to enjoy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5nEWum173A
Here we are in Aberfeldy at the curry restaurant that Penny and Robin scouted out....of course, excellent food and great beer, Robin especially keen!!
Stayed at Balnearn House in Aberfeldy- 54 pounds which included a great breakfast!
Stage 7- Aberfeldy to Pitlochry- 18 kms.
Spring flowers seem to be even more apparent along this stage, perhaps as we are east of the snow-capped mountains of the |Highlands?
Now, THIS caught our attention!! Are the beavers following this Canadian??
Are the canoeists following this Canuck??!! We enjoyed watching this canoe race with coffee in hand in Grandtully as they went through a series of white water challenges.
Charming village of ...... complete with chocolate shop....call me for delivery!!
Looking back to Grandtully and discovering a tombstone from 400 years ago.
Last lunch on the RRW....the skies are clearing out once again. Weather was just amazing on this 7 day trek.
Standing stones at the top of Ballechin before we start our zig-zag descent into Pitlochry.
More storm damage....huge trees upended with roots exposed....
Apple blossoms as we head into Pitlochry....and the bird song was just beautiful.
Penny and Robin with love locks on the suspension bridge going across River.... into Pitlochry.
Rob Roy Way completed in Pitlochry....at the Celtic Cross war memorial. We are so HAPPY with this trek!! Next year, the Great Glen Way....120 kms. along Loch Ness from Fort William to Inverness.
Callendar
The above panorama picture shows Callendar! The town, the river Tay to the left, the Crag way beyond and the beautiful park near the river where I had many of my lunches.
Here's a few pictures from the town, starting with the old town hall.
A few typical street scenes, with spring vines and flowers starting to brighten the landscape.
The Callendar church which now serves as the tourist center.
Laneway filled with spring flowers leading from the 1 bedroom apartment which I enjoyed very much.
The town cemetery nestled beside the river, sadly locked up as I would have loved to stroll through it to check out the McGregor stones.
Everyone was buying the their plants and putting them in around their entrances.
I spent almost morning at The Waverly Hotel www.thewaverley.co.uk
which always had a warm greeting, a hot cup of coffee and,,,,Wifi! There were a couple of sisters who made sure I had all my questions answered and always asked me how my walking and hiking was going.
Always the sunrise and sunset shot.....here I am on the archeological hill from centuries ago.
Great information boards to help bring the history to life.
Off to explore: one day the Crags, the other day Bracklinn Falls.
The Crags Walk
From the bottom left, followed the Crags trail through a beautiful forest and several streams, then headed up to the base of the Crags. It became very steep and scrambly as I headed up to the top of the ridge. Below this pano picture you can just see Callendar and the river.
At the top was the cairn, erected in 1897 to celebrate Queen Victoria's diamond jubilee.
Another couple of views of the cairn: the top one looking back to the river and Ben Ledi to the right on the far ridge. .
Below is a closeup of |Ben Ledi one of the lower Munros, located between Callendar and Strathyre where we walked last week on the RRW, seen at the base of the ridge of Ben Ledi.
Bracklinn Falls
A special day walking up to Bracklinn Falls from Callendar, maps above.
The bridge had been washed out 4 years ago....a fine effort to rebuild and create a gorgeous walk-over. It won an award for its design and execution.
Above, a lovely view up the stream which surges past the bridge. In 2010, the stream overflowed its banks and tore out the old bridge. The Crags are at the top of the photo.
A little bit of Spain and Scotland each night!
Benderloch and Ben Lora
A lovely hike from Penny and Robin's home in Benderloch out to the beach....then along to Ben Lora!
Looking out from the edge of Ben Lora, over to the ferry coming from Oban.
And a magnificent view to the north along the strait near the mainland.
Enjoying time with Ivor, the miniature pony....Ivor loving the attention from Penny, Trish and especially Robin. Below is Penny with her Pringle, who she is training for the U3A group activities.
A happy three-some with Ben Lora beyond the fields.
Wishing everyone a wonderful Christmas and a Happy, Healthy 2017......for me, another wonderful tour of Scotland in the Borders as well as the Great Glen Way. Failte!!
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