2018- Walking Scotland- Speyside Way and beyond!
Sept.4-5, Tuesday-Wednesday-24 hours taking me from PEI, across to NS on the ferry, quick family visit, 5 hour flight overnight to Glasgow, CityLink bus to Tarbet, water bus to Inversnaid,
Ready to start the last 5 stages of the West Highland Way which I did back in 2014.
walked 1 km. up to the Inversnaid hostel from the dockside, a converted church http://inversnaid.com/and enjoyed my first of the year Scottish beer, an Ossian blonde!
on Rob Roy's escape route from the Trossachs over 300 years ago! Quite the change in 24 hours....tomorrow I walk along Loch Lomond, can't wait.Sept. 6, Thursday- 15 kms. to Inveroran
reflecting on a nice stay at the Inversnaid Hostel which offers camping as well. Met people from various areas including Joan, my dorm mate. She is building up her confidence, doing a recquie for future hikes. Had dinner with a very neat family: a mother and her 2 sons from Germany. Fascinating chats about the different options and directions her boys are taking. Poured rain all evening, cleared out for the next day. Clear as a bell views over Loch Lomond. How I love this area! Stopped at the Inversnaid Hotel and spotted this unique, innovative tool helper.
Good 15 km trek north to Beinglas, enjoying a good chat with Paul, a Scottish fireman. He had a small shell on! Guess what we talked about! He is planning the whole Camino in 2 years when he retires. Really liked ending up at Beinglas Farm https://www.
where I stayed 4 years ago in the B&B. Walked over to Drover's Inn on the A82.
Ah YES! The haggis! Meet the Loch Ness monster on land. Can you believe these tales in Scotland??
and enjoyed this quirky 1705 place: uneven floors, irregular stairs, stuffed animals, ghostly presences....apparently. I stayed in a room called the Bower.
Excellent dinner of goat cheese feta on salad accompanied by great Ossian blonde beer. "ROBERT DOESN'T DRINK SO HE JUST ENJOYED THE OSSIAN BLONDE", says he.At 9:30, a woman staggered in to the pub... 12 hours of walking 25kms. from Rowedennan!Eeeeek! And her friends were still out there! Next day, we found out they came in at 10:20 using a cell phone light! Eeeeek!
Feeling refreshed after 2 good nights sleeps, perfect for recuperating from jet lag.
Sept. 7, Friday- 22 kms to Tyndrum-
Lovely day heading north along the valleys, great views to Ben ...... pretty demanding climb up the hill overlooking Crianlarich. You are halfway on the WHW if you started in Milgavnie!
St Filan had his priory here with several info boards as well as ruins.Undulating walk through beautiful forests, carpets of red mushrooms, streams gurgling down the hillside, great track with many wild camping sites. Crossed the River Tay, with largest catchment area of any river in GB.
Another interesting area of historical nature walks including the battle ground of Robert the Bruce and the lochen where their swords were thrown.
Great to meet Robert at the By the Way Hostel, my second time here. http://tyndrumbytheway.com/ Warm reception, nice lounge and kitchen area, with quite a few people cooking up their dinners. Met a young lady from Alaska who will be doing a Ben Nevis event of hill and ridge running.Dinner at Tyndrum so-so: my fish was terrible, soggy and tasteless, Robert's steak pie good.
Upgrade to twin private room gave us a good sleep.Sept. 8, Saturday- 17 kms to Inveroran Hotel-
really nice to share the walking with Robert as we wound our way on the "old military road" alongside Ben .....and the railway line. Dramatic views, many people walking in both directions, track so good that it allowed us to look around more than usual.
Bridge of Orchy hotel looking very spiffy, fresh white stucco, nice bar where we had coffees and shared a rich brownie. http://www.
Had a great chat with a teacher from Stirling who was cycling. He went LA to NYC in 15 days a few years ago!A short walk up and over hill overlooking Loch Tula, dramatic views to southern flanks of Glencoe Pass.
Our Inveroran Hotel https://www.inveroran.com/ came into view and we checked in: excellent annex accommodation with our own bathroom. Washed hair and clothes, Robert catching up on his sleep with 2 naps. Dinners of Scottish salmon stunning presentation and delicious! Desserts after of sticky toffee and lemon mousse...outstanding.
Enjoying great local craft beers so had a red wine. Retired to the lounge and ended up in an invigorating chat with Surin, the host. (From Transylvania and Romania) Eastern European state of affairs, fascinating.Sept.9, Sunday- 15 kms to Glencoe Pass-
decent weather for most of the trek, gently rising around Glencoe's "shoulder".
Rain squalls off and on, then dramatic clearing as we came into view of Glencoe.Then! A beautiful full rainbow, vibrant and rich. Persisted for over an hour, even viewed from the ski resort https://www.glencoemountain.co.uk/ where we had a break.
Down to the A82 and caught the CityLink bus to Glencoe Village, an absolutely spectacular drive with stunning mountains on both sides. Thrilled to see the hanging "lost" valley where the Macdonald's had fled to in 1692....the massacre of Glencoe.
In Glencoe Village a sweet bartender, Stella, at The Gathering called Kenny, the taxi driver. Quick drive to the Clachaig Inn. https://clachaig.com/The Boots pub behind the main entrance was warm and welcoming, enjoyed a venison burger as well as a feta-cheese/beetroot veggie burger.Sept. 10, Monday- to Kinlochleven - wind gusts up to 60 mph so decided to get Kenny to drive us. Ah well, not worth the chance of getting blown off the Glencoe Ridge! Enjoyed exploring Kinlochleven: library, Highland College with its exhibit of Conscientious Objectors of WW1 camp- 16 K total in GB! Parallel to this camp were the POW's captured from Germany. They built the road to Glencoe Village! After, we checked out the Ice Factor which has 2 huge rock climbing rooms and a gigantic (500 tons of ice and snow!) ice chamber for ice climbers. https://www.ice-factor.co.uk/ Stayed at excellent Blackwater Hostel: http://www.blackwaterhostel.co.uk/ Sept. 11, Tuesday- 25 kms.
Climb out of Kinlochleven towards Fort William gave us wonderful views back to Glencoe ridges.
Glorious outbreaks of sunshine just south of Ben NevisWhat a view down the valley.....
Lots of water gushing off the Glencoe mountains...lots of river crossings but managed to enjoy picnic at a bothy ruin. Sign says "Dangerous building,keep out" but we all ducked behind this for a nature break.
Enjoy this panorama of the valley. Scroll to the left and right.
Sept. 12, Wednesday- Very exciting to take the bus from Fort William to Inverness, along last year's Great Glen Way.
So nice to see familiar places along the ride: Fort Augustus, Invermoriston, Drumnadrochit, Urquhart Castle and then Inverness. Picture the TV series, "Outlander". Quick train ride to Aviemore from Inverness, very convenient to walk from the CityLink bus to the rail station in Inverness.Quick note about public transport in Great Britain: just excellent!Bus service in Scotland: Citylink website has Pdf schedules and you can book online. The bus drivers like to have the printed tickets but it is possible to pay right on the bus. Several routes are quite busy and it is best to reserve beforehand.Trains: In Scotland it is called ScotRail and south of Glasgow it is called Virgin Trains West Coast or East. We went all over Scotland on both bus and train.
We took a bus to Oban (through the Rest and Be Thankful Pass) and a train back to Glasgow through Crainlarich, both giving us 2 spectacular views of the west Scotland scenery.The train from Glasgow to Kendal in the Lake District was very convenient and our friends picked us up at Oxenholme train station just outside Kendal.We took the train from Kendal to Ballach through Glasgow: We bought our ticket right on the train from the conductor!Sept. 12- Aviemore- Today we met up with our walking group for the 7 day Speyside Way walk: Aviemore to Buckie, 130 kms. McDui's Pub did the trick....Guinness, Ossian and MacAllan's whiskey for Ian, his "first" on the walk!
Aviemore Youth Hostel excellent, great facilities in a woodland setting. There was a big group of German students who partied rather late!Speyside Way- The Whiskey TrailThursday, Sept. 13- Stage 1- 11 kms from Aviemore to Boat of Garten-
Sue asked for directions of this fine fellow....all wrong but the diversion to the Spey River was excellent!had a wonderful (accidental!) diversion to the Spey River, spotting many fisherpeople...one a woman vigorously fly casting called Spey casting (video)
We followed the beautiful river for quite a length, emerging into flat lands with heather and small Scot pines...and brilliant sunshine!
Long walk into Boat of Garten, pretty town with great views to the Cairngorms and the small shop had both snacks (read, meat pie!) and coffee with a welcome picnic table in front. Boathouse B&B https://www.booking.com/hotel/gb/the-boat-house-guesthouse. en-gb.html was very welcoming and terrific breakfast. Dinner at Anderson's tasty and warming. Here we have 2 hikers gazing wistfully into the shop window!!
Friday, Sept. 14- Stage 2- 20 kms from Boat of Garten to Grantown-on-SpeyWalked for 8 kms through forests to Nethybridge, then found a great café with delicious cakes: Apple-date, chocolate brownie, blackberry crumble an absolute treat. Isn't this a special sight?! Ann loved the lattes, calling it a Camino coffee.
Continued another 12 kms on an old rail bed for rest of day, seeing fall flowers as well as the start of fall foliage.
The rowan trees were all heavily laden with berries.
Cairngorms beautiful, seen just beyond our walk along the Speyside Way.
Grantown-on-Spey quite a large town with a nice town square. The B&B was a 5 minute walk from the town square.
Willowbank Guest House http://
Met up with everyone for nice-enough dinner at Ben Mhor Hotel. Good selection of whiskey....we are on the trail,remember!
Saturday, Sept. 15- Stage 3 - Grantown on Spey to Ballindalloch
Surprised at how tough these 29.5 kms with 500 meters ascents over 3 hills with views down to the Spey River way below. The second climb was TOUGH. We all struggled especially when we realized that the 3rd ascent seemed to be quite unnecessary!! Asking around, we found out that the diversion was established when there was an outbreak of "hoof and mouth" in the livestock 10 years ago.
Of course, our lunchtime was a treat with quite the views down to the Spey River but....still a struggle.
A little First Aid for Robert's achilles tendon/ left knotted calf.Last part of the stage was very flat on the rail bed as we spotted fishing pole holders along the river.
Ann had to go another 4 kms to her late-booked accommodation! We "figured out" where we needed to go and came into what I would say was the best inn ever!Cragganmore House outstanding, with Tony the French chef and wife Barb. The dinner he prepared was superb! http://www.cragganmore-house.com/ Venison, rack of lamb, hake- then sticky toffee pudding with raspberry sorbet- all a taste sensation!
We "retired" to the drawing room with our tea and coffee, enjoying a good chat with a fisherman who comes here every year for 3 weeks. Poor fishing this year so he was discouraged.Breakfast the next morning was another taste treat. Here we are in front of this exceptional Inn.
Above, our hosts Barbara and Tony, the chef.
Sunday, Sept. 16- Stage 4- 25 kms. Ballindalloch to Toumintoul
This is a spur route off the Speyside Way- 24.9 km with 2 major ascents of 750 meters up to Toumintoul, highest village in Scotland. The above graph speaks for itself.
Got hit by sleet and hail halfway up, followed a fence into safety, then beautiful views down to the Glenlivet Distillery as we managed quite a steep descent. https://www.theglenlivet.com/en-CA/
There was such an amazing display of their whisky bottles. Are they full?
Yes, we stopped for a tea/cake break here
Cairn Daimh is the highest point at 596 meters/ 1866 feet. Zoom in on the metal disk for mountain names...and yes! that is Robert about to be blown away!
Welcome pub meal at Clockhouse http://www.
with a very interesting named beer..
That is a wee dram of 10 year-old Toumintoul whiskey in front, for guess who!!
Sensational area, great hikes, wonderful food and drink with special outdoor enthusiast friends.Smuggler's Hostel was ok and we were upgraded to the family room as there were few guests, end of Fall season coming. Apparently very busy here in the Winter as many people ski in the area. Host was nice to bring us some cereal for breakfast the next day.This hostel is the highest in Scotland and stays open all year for the Cairngorm skiing season.
We took a taxi down to the Spey River, very nice to see another perspective of our hike up, all condensed into 30 minutes compared to our 7.5 hours the day before. We went right past the Glenlivet Distillery. We started our walk to Aberlour after meeting up with Penny and Robin who had stayed in the car park in their camper van.The men are conferring....where will we get our next triple-chocolate brownie, Robert?Monday, Sept. 17- Stage 5- 20 kms to Aberlour-
Relatively easy stage after the last 2 days which were quite challenging. Lots of distilleries which did not offer tours. The Glenlivet tours ranged from 75 to 100 pounds a person. Scenery was pastoral, always within sight of the Spey River.Checked into the Craigellachie Inn after a pleasant walk. http://www.craigellachiehotel.co.uk/
Was there chocolate. Of course!!
Tuesday, Sept. 18- Stage 6- 26 kms. to Fochabar-
We must be getting fit as I really didn't feel the 467 meters of ascents. The first part was steady up and up into beautiful forests with huge larch and looking way down to the Spey River. Loved the way the trees sheltered us on this quiet road.
Fall colours starting in this area....goats and sheep grazing here.
The mist cleared, Robert appeared after another "day off" and we rolled into a pretty town with a strange name.....! Can't count the number of jokes we made about Fochaber!
While waiting for us, Robert spent an hour or two in the local museum which was housed in the church. As we were being picked up by our hosts for the Trachelhill Inn, we decided to eat early in town. Best fish and chips takeaway in Scotland for 2017!! http://www.
Trachelhill Inn was outstanding, http://www.trochelhill.co.uk/rooms-at- trochelhill/balnacoul.php hosts Christine and Neil super, so welcoming and the facilities fantastic: loved the bathroom!! Soaked in a clawfoot tub and started winding down from this latest walking adventure. One day to go!Wednesday, Sept. 19- Stage 7- 18 kms. to Buckie-
Excellent, welcoming cafe and craft shop, enjoyed tea and cakes near the ice house which was used to store fish. Then the rain came, didn't even have a chance to take a picture of our lovely coffee and cake break!Spey River in full "flood" with surging water racing to the North Sea. Pleasant walk along the river, then thrilled to see the outlet to the North Sea.
Long walk through Buckie and then up to the town square. Got our picture taken at the end of the Speyside Way....yay! 4 long walks with special hiking buddies.
We enjoyed one of the best Indian meals ever at Bengal Brasserie, our traditional way to celebrate our long walks. Check out our picture on Sept. 19!!
Looking out along the pier towards the Lake District on the other side of the bay. Loved the many cement inscriptions with whimsical poetry and puns. Above is very cute!
Here we three are on the pier near the Midland Hotel.
Quite the views as we drove back to Sedburgh...lovely area.Loch Lomond ramblingsWednesday, Sept. 25- Train from Kendal to Glasgow, to Ballach- Bought our train ticket in Oxenholme train station then amazing to buy next ticket right on the train from the conductor to transfer through Glasgow train station through to Ballach, located on the tip of Loch Lomond.Thursday, Sept. 26- Stayed at Anchorage Inn, a 2 minute walk from the train station.We had a very good Italian meal at nearbyWalked 7 kms, exploring the Ballach Castle and the adjoining gardens.
Fall colours and native plants all wonderful for us to see.The walled garden was very special.Friday, Sept. 27- Walked 14 km from Balloch and Loch Lomond on the first stage of the 3 Lochs Way.
We hiked up a steady ascent to the ridge with incredibly beautiful views back to Ben Lomond and the Loch as we climbed up.Here is our view looking north on Loch Lomond.
There was a section of this trail which went through a gorgeous forest after passing by a huge number of recent windblown trees. Sunlight lit up the forest and created a mysterious environment. Can you see the forest faerie here?*****This part of the 3 Loch Way intersects with the John Muir Trail. Had a nice chat with 2 girls from CA who were doing the John Muir trail.Walked on to Helensburg located on a sea loch, Loch Long. Apparently there is a nuclear missile storage area near here. Stayed at the County Hotel and had take-out Indian food. The hosts of the Hotel very kindly offered utensils and dishes so we could eat in their dining room. (PS- they co-own the hotel and takeaway!)Saturday, Sept. 28- Quite a wet 11 km. walk from Helensburgh east towards Loch Lomond.
We decided to abandon the 3 Lochs Way because of increasingly wet and windy weather being predicted. Definitely would come back to do this in its entirety! At the highway intersection #818 there was a great cafe, Fruin Farm, where we warmed up/ dried out with coffee and cakes.Lovely Blairglas B&Benjoying a hospitable Scottish Welcome with Neil and Christine, chatting with other guests from Austria and the Netherlands. Global conversation! Love it! Neil is an avid fisherman and worked for the Scottish nature reserves before "retiring" to the B&B. LOVE the below sign.
Robert enamoured with a gigantic oak tree as we walked towards Loch Lomond alongside the very busy A82.
Bought tickets for the cruise across Loch Lomond- I was beyond words as we watched the sun and cloud play on the Ben Lomond Ridge.
At the rock wharf near Balmaha ( note fisherman in above photo with FOUR poles!) I thought the ferry would go around the corner and into Balmaha. NO!! we ended up going BACK across Loch Lomond to Luss. Joke was on me! The very nice pilot declined to charge us for the round trip and additional crossing and we chatted with him for an hour....he immigrated from Poland 14 years ago.Balamaha Inn quite nice but pricey. They have developed this area quite a bit from what I remember 4 years ago when I did the WHW. Tom Weir, friend of John Muir who developed the Scottish Highland hiking network in Balmaha recreation area, is honoured at the lochside park.
I bought a few beer and crisps from the local shop and we enjoyed watching the sunset with Loch Lomond brews, 8% and 10 % for the Lost Monster.
Great hike up to the summit
We took the bus to Dryman as the weather was too wild to climb Conic Hill. So nice to meet up with Frances who runs the Kip in the Kirk and has done the Camino. She very kindly upgraded us to a private twin room at the hostel, with our own bathroom. This is my 3rd time here!
Tuesday, Oct. 2- Bus to Oban through the spectacular "Rest and Be Thankful" pass which was closed a week later due to horrendous land and rock slides. Just lovely to meet up again with our walking buddies Penny and Robin. Very warm welcome! We helped them clean up the fields where their 3 horses are paddocked.
Lovely dinner and evening.Wednesday, Oct. 2- what a treat of a day! We took the ferry over to Kerrera island and walked the entire place, 13 kms.
Glyn Castle was a highlight and had many information boards for us to check out.
Picnicked overlooking the wild Atlantic ocean as the rain had let up a bit but continued off and on all day.
Invigorating and stimulating, a perfect way to finish our treks in Scotland for this year. Below, bog and grass with heather beyond.
Back to Penny and Robin's, checking out their beautiful veggie garden.
Thursday, Oct. 3- After I binned my boots at Penny and Robin's, they drove us to Connor Landing which is the first stop from Oban. We enjoyed a spectacular train ride to Glasgow through Crianlarich and Tyndrum , then walked about Glasgow for a few hours after sharing lunch in George Square. We spotted a Tim Horton's!! Yes, that is Robert in front, grinning away and with Glasgow Central railway station behind. Good location.
Good sleep, hop on to the plane and whoosh....back to Canada after 4 weeks of lovely wanderings and excellent companionships. Hope you enjoyed our wee Scottish travels!!Shuttle bus to the airport and then a short walk to our hotel, Premier Inn. I got it mixed up with the Travelodge place, having stayed in both over the last few years. Both are a convenient 5 or 10 minute walk from the main entrance of the airport.
posted by Sue/Robert @ 1:13 PM
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