April 7- bus and train to Madrid from Malaga
April 8 and 9- Madrid with Gary, Rosa and Ashley
EuroStar train ride from Malaga....whoosh for 74 euros!
Lovely to meander with Ashley from one end of Madrid old town to the other!
Man of La Mancha rides again
Beautiful Palais Real
Tapas Run!
From bar to bar, sampling the most delicious tapas and meeting wonderful people
Let's go for it, says Gary! Above menu shows the great variety....love the octopus....
Flambe fun, what a great show
How about cactus wraps around a delicious flambeed fish with a squeeze of lime?
Tapas Run #2
Waiting for our guide....
Loved Las Gatos and Moto Guzzi
This is a great panorama....scroll left to right
Walking from bar to bar took us through the old town of Madrid.
Casa Gonzales was special and so informative
Cardamomo Flamenco Madrid was fantastic!
April 10- And now on to the Bus to Leon after creating wonderful memories in Madrid- 19 euros
Guess what we saw in the mountains! Yes, these are salt trucks for the sleet and hail!
Below, the most beautiful cathedral ever here in Leon.
10.5 kms. to Virgen de Camino- just west of Leon.
Met my dear and familiar friend just outside Leon city center.
A spot of sleet, hail and snow in Valverde de la Virgen
Albergue was closed, so disappointing, so stayed at the Hotel Royal- 22 Euros and groceries was 10 Euros
And then the sunshine came out lighting up these cherry trees and my smile!
April 11- 29.8 kms. to Orbigo de Hospital
Walking into the morning sunrise with a special hiking buddy
Villares Orbigo on the route- and a familiar albergue where I have stayed twice (2014 and 2017). I had a quick chat with the Dutch lady who has taken it over from the young couple from Madrid who had renovated it.
April 12- 19 kms. to Murias Rechivaldo through Astorga
First sighting of snow on the Camino, reminding us that Winter is just past.
Just wonderful to see David's again, such a huge change over the last 4 years since he received the land behind this drop-in area from a friendly and grateful patron. Now he is planting fruit trees! He was "out and about" getting his place ready for the season but he had a good variety of fruit and veggies put out for an honorarium donation, a donativo.
You can see the meditation circle behind me which has coins for people in need.
Astorga is a stand-out memory for me, from 2014 and 2017. Have a look at some of the pictures from those 2 Blogs.
2017- http://travels-with-robert-and-sue-gonzo-sty.blogspot.com/2017/08/2017-camino-similar-to-2014-but-unique.html
2014- http://travels-with-robert-and-sue-gonzo-sty.blogspot.com/2014/09/camino-de-santiago-walking-meditation.html
April 13- Murias de Rechivaldas to Foncebaden- 22.1 kms
Albergue Aguedas- 13 euros and dinner was 12 euros (private)
Pretty cool in the washrooms but the dinig room was cozy and friendly. Loved this stone sculpture as we left the next morning. First few kms. was totally flat, then it was up and up and up. 
Check out the stork's nest, one of many that we saw!
Tough ascent to this water fountain....then lots of mud. But look at the view to the snow-capped Leon mountains!
Almost fell into this mud-bog and a very nice man yelled in Spanish....are you OK??!! Esta OK??
Beautiful cairn overlooking the valley looking back to Astorga
Foncebadon real-estate
We stayed at Albergue Monte Irago, 9 euros which included a cold breakfast. We were in the attic of the 3-story building with one toilet and one shower.....a bit too close for comfort! Ah, but the veggie paella (9.5 euros) dinner was worth it and the group was very friendly. No WiFi so went next door and had a beer while I talked to Robert by FB.
April 14- 23 kms. to Cruz de Ferro then on to Molinesca
Another special stop at the Cruz de Ferro, this time with Ashley. I paid my respects to all my loved ones again. I said Good-bye to Ashley......
Then, a lovely surprise to come across her a km down the trail....and so nice to get this stunning picture!!
Another goodbye and we were off for the next part of our adventure. I stopped for lunch overlooking the far-off mountains and looked down at the leggings......eeeewwww!
Manjarin is the quirkiest of villages, population of 2 but well worth checking out....now you see it, now you don't. Then spotted my first snow from last Winter's season.
Very moving plaque, remembering a 17 year old.
Very steep descent to El Acebo, walked on the road a bit to relieve myself from the rocks....and then into Riego de Ambros where we stayed last year for 2 nights. No, Robert, SHE was not there!!
Love this area as we left Riego. Can you spot the 3 yellow arrows?
Snowy mountains always within sight....helps you know that you are going in the right direction.
Contrasting nicely with the spring flowers in the valleys.
Bridge coming into Molinesca, excellent, welcoming albergue, 9 euros which included a cold breakfast (below). The hosts picked up my knapsack and walked it into the albergue. Good variety of option for beds: bunkroom which I ended up having to myself as well as an open dorm with single beds for 12 euros. Good laundry area in the lounge with a good view.
I remember this....and the turntable actually turns!
I met Ann here who was taking a day off...we enjoyed dinner together, nice signs as seen below- 11 euros. Groceries bought in Molinesca for 7 ueros
Lovely statue at the departure from Monilesca with the mountain we hiked down yesterday behind the village.
April 15- 28 kms. to Pieros
Took the above for Robert who loved this view last year.
A reminder of why we are walking....
Walked with them awhile, lunch at a wayside place then admired the apple blossoms.
I decided to stop at what I would say is the best albergue I have ever enjoyed: El Serbal y Las Luna
I could go on and on but for me, it suited everything I like about the |Camino: small, fantastic hosts (there was a bit of a line-up to the single shower so they offered me the staff shower!), vegie meal, a meditation room, NO WiFi. The last helped us "bond"....;-) I met Sinnika here and we walked together, off and on, for the rest of the Camino. Penny was here as well who I last saw in Foncebaden. Funny story with 2 of the fellas here, seated to my right: I thought they were speaking Spanish....but no! it was Italian! We ended speaking French and helping translate to the other peregrinos. Lots of fun. Sinnika and I next met up with them at the Albergue San Martin in Santiago....it was like encountering long-lost relatives. Hugs and kisses all 'round.
There was a lovely room upstairs where people were able to relax, meditate with Nepalese musical instruments and the view to the mountains was superlative.
Sunrise was special, making our hosts smile. She was from Mexico and he was from Italy.
April 16- 24 kms. to Vega Valcarce through Ponferrada
Check out one of many stork nests we started to see along the Way. Above and below. A christening was about to take place. Ann and I were enjoying lunch and blessed with this family preparing for the big event.
Ponferrada another lovely experience.... Knights Templar. Scroll left to right to see the whole panorama.
Spotted a beautiful castle near this pretty stream...and spring flowers.
And guess who I came across? Ann and James, last seen in Molinesca....what is the expression? You see everyone at least 3 times on the Camino. Ann is clutching her 3rd? 4th? hiking pole, an ongoing joke with us all.
Let there be music.....!!
Another delightful albergue Casa del Pescador- 30 euros for a nice bunk in a 8 bedded room, dinner made up of fresh fish from the pond....El pescador!....and a delicious salad and beautifully decorated water jug. And this included laundry done by our Russian hosts as well as a shot of homemade vodka. Very memorable.
And guess who I met up with, Adrian and the girls! I had first met Adrian the day before walking along the very boring cement walkway and we passed an hour very quickly chatting away. The next time I saw them was in Santiago a week later....with Ashley!!
Nazdrovia!!
Fresh veggies for our delicious meal.
Beautiful storage shed. with hand-carved wooden windows.
April 17- 24 kms. to Hospital de Condes through O Cebreiro
Early start, we've got 8 and a half hours to do this!! Lots of calories needed for this effort.
Horses....or burros to go up O Cebreiro??!!
And so we start our climb....stopping to smell the flowers.
Scroll right to see the full panorama....almost at La Laguna where we stayed last year. 
And there are the horses starting their downward trek....
Finally, the boundary with Galicia!
Ashley came through here the day or two before us.
Beautiful church at O Cebreiro but it was unfortunately closed this year.
The church of O Cebreiro...then did a bit of power shopping and took a lunch break. THEN, a shocker of a trek over to Hospital de Condes. Snow was pretty and fun, then it got deeper and more difficult to negotiate, even on a graded, new track on the contour of the Cebreiro hillside.
As we got into the more shaded areas, the snow got deeper and more dense, so difficult to walk through....Sinnika very sweetly insisted I take her 2nd hiking pole. I had forgotten mine in Madrid!!
Here it was 2 weeks before, with Catherine and Liz trekking through here. (I walked with them back in2014). We were in touch by email and they posted a video which really illustrated how difficult this area was.
Hospital de Condes Albergue Municipal (6 euros) got off to a very poor start as the hospitalero refused to get off the phone as the 6 of us all stood there shivering and exhausted. Sinnika, Penny and I looked at each other in near despair. We wanted a bed, a shower and some food!! It was in a tiny village with one restaurant/pub and we found out it would not be open the next morning for breakfast. Yikes.
A young woman from Holland had left her glasses at the previous albergue....and the hospitalero redeemed herself by driving back and getting the glasses. She came into the albergue at 10:30 that night!
April 18- 19 kms. to Triacastela
Next morning, after double-checking that the restaurant was indeed closed, we trekked 5 kms. up to Alto del Paya without food....or more importantly....COFFEE!! Actually it was a beautiful sunrise illuminating gorgeous terrain.
You can see the cemetery in the below picture.
And my favorite shadow picture of all time...and Sinnika was just up ahead.
We climbed up a steep hill and walked into a VERY welcome restaurant and the owner/ cook was running madly about preparing food for the peregrinos. Most of us had walked for over an hour, some from O Cebreiro before our own stop. Top requests were homemade orange juice and a full platter with eggs and sausage. Oh YUM!! Sinnika and Hilde were very amused with the owner's dog....!
Gigantic snowdrift.....gives you an idea of how much snow these mountains capture each winter.
Some nice Irish fellows took this picture which shows the O Cebreiro mountains behind us.
1270 meters up, now that was quite the climb to get to our wind-blown peregrino on Alto del Paya.
What goes up, must come down....we walked past where Robert and I had stopped last year in Fonfria. Where a blizzard forced us all to bail out into taxis and down to Samoa. We stopped at this farmicia..... ;-)
And can you count SEVEN yellow arrows here? Do you think people got lost here??
Halfway down to Triacastela, we watched an eagle (see in the air) coming in to clean-up a placenta that this cow had left after birthing a calf....perfect recycling.
Love these storage shelters....
And tiny churches....
And guess who I spotted again? Nice reunion and catch-up.
Beer and an ensalada russo.....excellent combination.
Triacastela- blister town. I decided to take a bus down to Sarria. When will I be able to do this stretch of the Camino? Last year it was a snowstorm, this year a blister that needed tending.
I stayed 2 nights at this Sarria albergue, private and right near the Camino and the hospital. $ C.43. a night
The staff at the Medical Center were fantastic. They took my info at recepcion, sent me upstairs with a number and then a nurse and doctor had a look. No walking for 2 days!! When I tried to pay right then, they grinned and said "Canada will pay Spain". I received the bill by mail at home 2 months later and sorted it out with Health PEI.
Above is a picture of me with the triage nurse. Very sweet woman who used her computer translator even though her English was quite good, better than my Spanish!! When she didn't think I was going to stop for 2 days, she brought in the doctor. I returned the next day with a pot of flowers to thank her. Several people had good experiences on the Camino with the medical services. I met up with Ann on the riverfront for a few meals and we walked Sarria's old town for a day. Nice to explore this little city!
As we walked from the railway station after checking on tickets and timetables, we came across a street (see above and under the C535 sign) that had beautiful mosaics which denoted various aspects of the Camino.....so well thought out!
Love this fumeriro mosaic.
Translation of the below: checking this out!! Something about democracy and liberty,
Above, the remnants of the Sarria castle walls, located near the market and a parking lot.
This Sarria church is where many pilgrims start their Camino. Last year, 300,000 peregrinos walked the Camino, many starting in Sarria. Here is a summary for June 2018, thanks to the Camino Forum run by Ivar of Santiago.
The Pilgrimage to Santiago in June 2018- I have started my 4 Caminos in late March and mid-April.
45,684 pilgrims were received during the month of June 2018 in the Pilgrimage Office in Santiago; the previous Holy Year in 2010 were 33,757. Of these pilgrims, 22,941 (50.22%) are women and 22,743 (49.78%) men. On foot, 41,783 (91.46%) arrived, by bicycle, 3,787 (8.29%), on horseback 78 (0.17%) and 27 (0.06%) on a wheelchair.
Place of departure
Most of the pilgrims arrived in 2018 have started their journey in Sarria with 11,793 (25.81%); S. Jean P. Port with 6,042 (13.23%); Porto with 3.562 (7.80%); Tui with 2.587 (5.66%); Leon with 1,663 (3.64%); Ferrol with 1.561 (3.42%); Oviedo - CP with 1,318 (2.89%); Cebreiro with 1,243 (2.72%); Ponferrada with 921 (2.02%); Irún with 918 (2.01%); Valença do Minho with 904 (1.98%); Roncesvalles with 881 (1.93%); Porto Costa with 781 (1.71%); Le Puy with 574 (1.26%); Pamplona with 572 (1.25%); Astorga with 530 (1.16%); Burgos with 462 (1.01%); Lugo - CP with 433 (0.95%); Ourense with 433 (0.95%); Lisbon with 407 (0.89%); Seville with 396 (0.87%) uo - CP with 433 (0.95%); Ourense with 433 (0.95%); Lisbon with 407 (0.89%); Seville with 396 (0.87%) Lugo - CP with 433 (0.95%); Ourense with 433 (0.95%); Lisbon with 407 (0.89%); Seville with 396 (0.87%)
Ann and I enjoying lovely sunshine beside the Camino as it leaves Sarria. Beyond are the mountains we walked through!
After, we strolled about the Market and spotted a few interesting items for purchase: pig head soup, anyone?
Or maybe fresh chicken soup. I had no idea these chickens were alive when the vendor handed them to me. Suddenly, they started wiggling about and Ann captured my reaction!!!
Last year, my big thrill was the falcon!!
Of course, Ann and I were always searching out our Camino coffee con leche, this time with a chocolato brioche.
Ramblings in Lugo, a UNESCO world heritage site
I was here a few years ago and enjoyed a full day of rambling. This visit was a condensed version between 2 bus rides: Sarria to Lugo, then on to Arzua to meet up with Ashley. The bus station was just outside the city walls, near Puerto Bispo Aguirre.
There are several staircases leading up to the upper wall. It is an ancient Roman town with a complete wall-walk around the whole city.
City hall building.
Below, statues and a plaque commemorating Emperor Augustus Caesar and Julius Caesar and their role in developing Lugo 2100 years ago.
Catedral Lugo, open for a Mass.
Above, scroll left to right for the full view. Below is a map of a Roman bath which was uncovered and then protected with a plexiglass sheet.
Part of the Roman wall and a viewpoint into the new town.
April 21- bus to Arzua- Albergue Ultreia
So nice to see Ashley sitting out front as I got off the bus from Lugo. Beautiful albergue, 10 euros, and with a lovely garden area out back. There, Ashley and I relaxed with a beer and got caught up on our Camino stories. We had a good chat with Mai of Taiwan. We met up with Mai in Santiago a few days later. Bunk area excellent with different alcoves for semi-privacy. Kitchen and laundry area very convenient. Bar out front nice for a convenient dinner.
Below, Ashley is heading out into the sunrise.
Bronze statue explanation- St Roch, aka San Roque, was bishop in Le Puy back in the day, and is one
of the earliest recorded pilgrims to Santiago. Statues and paintings
of him are everywhere, usually with him hoisting his robe showing the
sore on his knee, and with a little dog beside him.
No, his knee wasn't sore from walking. It has something to do with him
curing some faithful of leprosy. Details have faded in my memory, but a
search should answer further lingering questions.
April 22- 14 kms. to Touristica Salseda
Lovely scenery along the Camino: a horse in the mist, swift flowing streams and bright weeds, dogs "guarding" the Way, horses being driven, Sunday cycling club racing past.
And look who I met up with! Shareeze from Murias back near Astorga! It is SO true that you tend to meet up with the same people at least 3 times.
There seems to be a concerted effort to be more inclusive with the spirituality on the Camino. Here are some sayings which were posted along the Way.
Cyclists in the late morning mist and then a beautiful shade shadow in the sunlight.
This made me so very sad. Father and son died within a month of each other.
Beautiful villages of Galicia.
Peregrina beer!!
Nice stop for lunch watching the pilgrims walk past....and then the horses trotted by!
Calla lilies in full bloom!
Touristica Salceda about 1.5 kms off the Camino but worth the effort. 14 euros for the bunkroom bed, lunch, dinner and breakfast was an additional 22 euros. The hosts seemed to be set up as a tourist place rather than an albergue. A walking group of students came in for dinner but did not stay the night.
This is good as there is no nearby village. a captive audience!!
Here are some familiar faces!
Nice to spend time with Penny and Sinnika who I saw several times since Astorga.
April 23- 20 kms to Lavacolla
Nice stop at a beautiful stream.
LOVE this marker as we get closer to Santiago. However, it's back to the reality of cars and urban sprawl.
13 kms. to go!!
Spring flowers and fruit trees are all in bloom....
Nice hostel at Lavacolla, Albergue San Paio, 21 euros, with good laundry facilities. We hung our clothes up on the roof! Beer and dinner at the nearby La Coucha for 13 euros. Yes, it does get more expensive the closer you get to Santiago.
April 24- 10 kms to Santiago
Gorgeous primulas and a yellow bush so similar to the one Betty grows in her gardens.
A summary of some of the highlights from this year's set of Albergues:
Hospital Orbigo- San Miguel-
Very cold, fireplace, friendly staff from Venezuela, art work, kitchen with grocery store close by, courtyard
Aquedas- Murias Rechivaldos
Great courtyard, nice community meal (chickpea soup, veggie main course)
Foncebaden- 2017- 4 kms. before Cruz de Ferro Alb.la Cruz de Fierro
-new owner, very accommodating, excellent community meal
2018- Alb. Monte Arigo
Staff pretty friendly, nice fireplace, good community meal (paella), all you can eat , bad WiFi ("broken")
Avoid 3rd floor beds- no air, terrible bathrooms
Ponferrada-Alb. Guiana- clean, no community meal, close to everything
Pereje- awful bathrooms, bar meal, remote
Linares- lunar do Rei- clean, kitchen, no meal, small bar, great view
A Balsa- El Beso- veg. Organic meal/ family run, clean,
Morgade- Casa Morgade- community meal- need to reserve- very friendly- nice patio
Airexe- Escuela deLigonde- awful bath, password sent through text, friendly enough
Melide- San Anton- clean, meal ok, not very friendly, close to everything
Arzua- Ultreia-
very friendly, terrace, great bathrooms, kitchen area for cooking and fridge,
Perdrouza- Cruceiro- off Camino, clean, big, friendly, kitchen and grocery, lots of options
Santiago- Nest Hotel- great location,
Santiago- Monastery de San Martin Pinari- excellent and many pilgrims stay here to finish their Camino...and share some meals together, commnity-style
My hiking pole which replaced the one I left in Madrid. I left this one in Santiago!
Did some power shopping in a souvenir shop outside Monte de Gonzo. Yes, I have done the whole Camino over 4 years!! Sinnika has done the whole Camino this year....so well done!!!
Santiago Catedral in the distance, the first view of it for any pilgrim who walks the Camino Frances.
Monte de Gonzo sculpture in honour of the pilgrims who walk the Camino.
Beyond happy, full of our stories of effort, tears and smiles!
Above, Adrian from El Pescador and his buddies.
Below, our faithful companions, our 30 to 40 liter knapsacks.
Sherese organized a wonderful place to have a celebration lunch: Casa Marcelo. We all have our stories about this amazing place, with a chef who custom cooked our meals. You must give this a try next time you are in Santiago. Located just behind the catedral....
Thank you, Shareese!!
Here is the chapel near the Oficina de Credencial. Prayers to all the saints who kept us all safe.
And they now have the swinging fumeiro at almost every Mass. Can you see it?
Ashley was keen for ice cream....well, of course I said "yes"!!
I caught the sunset on the Catedral Santiago.
We stayed at the Monastery San Martin Pinero, a beautiful ending to our Camino. Below is the sunset view from our window on the 3rd floor. It was 55 euros for the 2 of us.
And look who we met up with in the front lobby? The Pieros guys: Italian speaking!
Sinikka is so proud to receive her credencial.
Ashley had checked out a beautiful park behind the catedral and we walked about it for a few hours. Gorgeous views back to the Catedral.
Below, an amazing 3 story house for the pigeons.
Another huge plane tree, this time framing the Catedral.
Selfie time.....we are relaxed and celebrating!!! I have my new shirt on with all sorts of passport stamps.
Well, look at this! The New Zealanders are heading into the plaza above and below, Mai and I, who we met in Arzua.
This picture is for the Capistrano buddies who love their Larios gin from Nerja.
So nice to ramble about with Sinnika. I will miss this special peregrino walking buddy from Finland. I'll never forget her kindness when she lent me one of her hiking poles when I was struggling to walk through the snow near O Cebreiro.
The Catedral before the renovations and cleaning.
My favorite Camino picture, taken somewhere in Galicia by Catherine back in 2014. Buen Camino, everyone!!
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