Travels with Robert and Sue, Gonzo-style

Thursday, September 11, 2025

Labrador Coastal Cruise And Quebec's North Shore - June 29- July 4, 2025

 RED BAY, Labrador UNESCO site

After driving through Cape Breton, overnighting in Glacé Bay, taking the ferry from Sydney to Port aux Basque with an overnight in Cornerbrook, ferry across to Blanc Sablon, we finally got to Labrador. 

Note to self: spend more time doing this and hike again in Cape Breton and Gros Morne. 

Red Bay excursion:  UNESCO site. Link to the site including a YouTube video 

https://parks.canada.ca/culture/spm-whs/sites-canada/sec02q

View to    Island where Basques processed (rendered) whale oil- this is where they found the chalupa (see picture below) 



The chalupa found at   island 

On our way to Goose Bay-Happy Valley, miles of  Stunted trees 


Our home on the ocean for 6 days 





We have completed the Labrador coast cruise!  Fascinating to stop in 6 coastal communities, watching them offload supplies and people  after a long winter of isolation. We were able to do walkabouts in Nain and Makkovik. Below, June 29 sunset as we departed Goose Bay, Labrador 

With the captain of the Kamitik

Our working boat seen behind me is one of the first to go up the coast after a winter of communities being isolated from the south 
We had several areas to just sit and observe.  A few pix from our dining area. 

Meals were expensive, around $20. a person.  We brought on board cereals, yoghurts, veggies, crackers and dips. 

 

Arctic char drying in a cage 

 Views from the upper deck....

Loading and off-loading supplies 
Waiting in Hopedale for our sailing 

Moravian church from early 20th century 
Beautiful steeple 
Diesel powered generating station 
View of Nain harbour and electric/communivation network 

Beautiful outcrops of granite 

 Walkabout on Canada Day 🇨🇦


 




Fantastic colours 
Spent much of our days watching the icebergs floating past 

Iceberg finder app was useful 




Northern most destination Nain

Bought some beautiful soapstone earrings from this friendly fellow 
Another Moravian church 

Museum with artifacts and geology pieces- labradorite here with Robert 
Museum of the north- Torngat Mountains - we met a couple who took a private boat up to the Torngat Mountains to film a documentary. 

Walkabout through Nain- old wooden snowmobile, abandoned years ago 
Another Moravian church
School yard and building- I wonder who Jen, Keegan and Megan were? 

Nain harbour 
Another Moravian church- established 1771 
Tour of the bridge thanks to the captain- heading south now 


Fishers at work 
Some Practical Observations Happy Valley-Goose Bay- very organized with a ticket office for checking-in- we purchased our tickets online about 2 months ago -enclosed, fenced area for our cars -bins for our luggage and coolers full of food which a truck took to the ship-shuttle bus for passengers which took us right on, dropping us off at the luggage area-lift took us up one level to the purser who handed us our digital tap keys -many locals (many family groups) slept sitting up overnight and then got off at Rigolet- at each port we watched the loading of construction materials including roof trusses as well as containers full of supplies - WiFi throughout and theatre for viewing news (CNN and CBC) 
ADVICE- Bring a plug-in cooler for dairy, etc. and bring breakfast (packets of oatmeal and a box of muesli), lunch and snacks, fruit and veggies.  Hairdryers blew fuses!  

 Last week (June 25) CBC reported that there were many empty shelves in the coastal communities.  Hot breakfasts/dinners/lunches are provided at a very high cost.  Servers in cafeteria are very kind to provide boiling water and containers for porridge, etc. 

Our cabin has a full bathroom with shower, toilet and sink ($550. for 3 nights up to Nain)

On our way south, we had no shower or toilet in the cabin, only a sink.   ($347. for 2 nights)There are 2 showers in the public toilet block. We were blessed with great weather and met many local people. A wonderful adventure!  

The drive across Labrador from Goose Bay-Happy Valley was uneventful.  We stayed overnight in Fermont, a town set up for mining companies and their workers.  

From Fermont to Manic 5 there are NO SERVICES OR CELL SERVICE.  

You could reserve a satellite phone, at a cost?  Not sure. 

We booked a free tour of Manic 5 (Daniel Johnson hydroelectric dam near Baie Comeau).  
The tour was 2 hours long, quite a bit of security and we travelled by bus.  We were not allowed to take pictures inside the dam.  The turbine area and generators very impressive! 




 



To round out our odyssey, we did 3 days in the beautiful Charlevoix, Saguenay and Tadoussac areas. We saw minke whales from the several marine parks, hiked a bit and toured the Science Museum. The Campground at Tadoussac is lovely and overlooks Tadoussac harbour. 
It is indeed the year to embrace all things Canadian! 
Map of the Saguenay and marine parks 
Tadoussac Harbour 


Nice stop at Ile aux Coudres by ferry 
Lovely drive around the perimeter, many cyclists
Museum- 

And of course, a stop for ice/cream!