Travels with Robert and Sue, Gonzo-style

Saturday, November 26, 2022

Scotland- West Highland Way- May 2022

Have a look at this great map which gives the historical highlights along the West Highland Way. 
Should I take this support van?  I'll never tell! 
It looks busy here....it was the gathering point for a fundraiser. 
Day 1- Milngavie to Drymen- 23 kms. 

Following the river up out of Milngavie, we came across these fascinating glass creations, part of a local art display
A friendly hiker who has seen better days, offering us a few pints....
Finally out of the suburbs of Milngavie....and we are now on our way towards the Highlands. Enjoying testing out our rain gear!! Ha!! 
 
The gorse bushes predominates the landscape...with the beautiful mountains beyond. 
Checking in to the Kip in the Kirk (B&B, hostel) in Drymen, our most excellent hostess Frances who has been welcoming me since 2015.   
She has so many stories to tell!  She converted a church a decade ago to create this wonderful accommodation in Drymen.  She operates a self-catering 3 bedroom apartment very close to the pub. 
Of course, a celebration pub meal at the Clachan Inn, the oldest pub in Scotland....apparently. 😊
Day 2- Drymen to Rowadennan- 25.7 kms.



A poignant "thank you" to NHS health workers for their dedication during the Covid-19 pandemic, now entering its 3rd year.  Below, our first view towards Conic Hill. Loch Lomond is on the other side. 
Heading up Conic Hill after 5 km. of relative flat trekking. 

At the top of Conic Hill, overlooking beautiful Loch Lomond.  The elevation map shows how steep the descent is. 
Below, the massive boundary fault, extending across Loch Lomond in the form of islands. 
Conic Hill behind us....with tiny ant-like people streaming down. 😊
Walking along Loch Lomond after lunch at Balmaha's Oak Tree Inn. Frances came by with our heavier "stuff".  Wow, what a great support of all hikers! 
Beautiful view out toward Loch Lomond....a water taxi cruises past, one of many criss-crossing the Loch.  
Ben Lomond
We stayed 2 nights at this Rowadennan accommodation (private 2 bedroom lodge)
 
 We met up with friend Scott who had taken a water taxi over from Tarbet. We all started to head up this remarkable mountain. 

 The views opened up almost immediately. 
 It is a huge temptation to keep looking back to the view over Loch Lomond! Thumbs up for this great iconic marker at the beginning of the trail. 
Scott went ahead as he wanted to do the complete loop. 
Diane and I did very well until the rain hit us...while eating 
lunch! 
Diane went up a little more to see the top of Ben Lomond. 
Rowedennan to Inversnaid Hotel- 13.9 kms

Just outside Rowadennan, there was the original hostel, where I had stayed with Penny back in 2015.   The rhododendrons were beautiful. 
Time to replenish our knapsack supplies.  Honesty box! 
Robert is always good to give us a geology perspective.  The rock formations here are so interesting. 
Beautiful walking along the shoreline of Loch Lomond.  We stopped on this beach for lunch and enjoyed watching other hikers and bird life!
 
This beautiful waterfall is right beside the Inversnaid Hotel.
Here is the view from the front of the hotel.
View from the water taxi "Lomond Queen" as we headed over to Tarbet. You can see the saddle where the road goes over to Loch Katrine. I stayed at the hostel at the top in 2018. 
Tarbet is a lovely village and we found a terrific café with good sweets. 
Then we took the bus to Beinglas and the Drover's Inn.  Is it haunted?  I think yes!  I stayed here in 2018.   But first of all, we needed to pay homage to the elusive haggis, seen here stuffed and mounted (behind the bear and masked people!!!)
The story....
Beinglas Campground and B&B
Love it here....it literally saved me back in 2015 when I was very hyperthermic after a grueling 25 km. slog from Rowadennan.
Below, views of the campground and B&B site. People can be seen setting up their tents. Nice dinner with a celebration draught  beer.
Skies were spectacular as the sun set. 
Breakfast was included so we did another calorie load on a full Scottish breakfast. 

 Beinglas Farm to Tyndrum- 21.3 km
 

Nice to have the sun come out as we neared these beautiful Highlands...great trail on the original Drover's Road built by Telford 200 years ago. 
 Scooching underneath the highway....
Our 2 bedroom chalet in Tyndrum- "By the Way" offers camp sites and a hostel set-up as well as several chalets. 
It is a 10 minute walk into Tyndrum....and we picked up a few pizzas to cook up in the kitchen. Nice lounge to relax in......
 LOVE the Green Welly where we bought our pizza and salad stuff!!  Very funky and fun....and has great hiking equipment as well as a small restaurant for breakfast and lunch items. 
Lots of Scottish shortbread!
Tyndrum to Inveroran Hotel- 17 km. 


What a pleasure to come to the Bridge of Orchy Hotel after following the railway line....a major stopping point along the A82. 

Jim having a little fun with his 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Buff. 

Pushing on from this haven of relaxation, up we went to this great view over Loch Tula, having a nice chat with other hikers. 
Below, you are able to see our destination, the Inveroran Hotel, seen at the edge of the woods, just over Robert's yellow knapsack. 😊. Way beyond, is the backside (southern flank) of Glencoe Pass. 
Washed up and relaxing over the wine and dinner. Salmon steaks from the local streams. 
 
Nadia and her chef husband smiling proudly. 
Yet another wonderful meal at the Inveroran Inn....definitely, you must stay here.  Book at least a year in advance!  
 Checking out the fishing record books in the lounge after dinner.....check out the sizes of these salmon!
 
View from our hotel room....a herd of deer and the ridge we came over.
INVERORAN HOTEL to KINGSHOUSE in GLENCOE PASS- 17 km. 


Wonderful information boards, packed full of historical details.
Heading into the small forest near Rannoch Moor
Red deer along the way....pretty domesticated.  Expecting a handout??! ;-)
Working our way up the mountainside....the views were breathtaking!
Always need a little pause along the WHW...the trail goes up over the far ridge, then Glencoe Pass and Kingshouse is in sight!!
Met some keen hikers who started at Kingshouse and were about to turn back.
Looking down to to Kingshouse Hotel and Glencoe Pass.  It's a view that I never get tired of.....such wildness! 
LOST VALLEY, GLENCOE PASS- 8 kms. round trip to Lost Valley
After crossing the Coe River over a slippery bridge, we started to go up....and up....holding on to a chain railing.
Views of Glencoe Pass from the top of the ascent
 Another spectacular view of Glencoe Pass
Yet another spectacular view of Glencoe Pass.   The Three Sisters mountains are on the left.
Lost Valley in 2014.....snow behind Robert and Sue

In 2022, Diane and Robert at the head of Lost Valley
Below, Kingshouse Hotel in 2014....
And the views now of Kingshouse after 3 years of renovating and updating during the Covid pandemic.