Travels with Robert and Sue, Gonzo-style

Monday, January 21, 2013

2012- Nerja, Spain....lovely....and Gibraltor for a change of Pace!

 Really, the map and the grins on our faces while on Nerja's beach say it all....for 2 months we explored the very south and west coast of Europe....don't have to say much more, eh?
 After enjoying a few days in London with friend Sandra (see next post for the UK part of the trip),we flew into Malaga and drove east along the coast to Nerja, about 50 kms, just past Torrox.  The below map shows a general overview of our explorations....we so enjoyed Nerja and the immediate area.  However, once a week, we went further afield:  Granada, Antequera, El Torcal, Ronda, Malaga. 
We went to any one of the 4 beaches which hug Nerja's coastline....at the end of this video you can see back to the mountains of the lower Sierra Nevada, which were immediately behind our apartment.  Imagine, we were able to walk down to the beach in 20 minutes or put on our hiking boots and head back up the mountains and enjoy the view looking up and down the coast of the Mediterranean Sea! 
One day we hiked up halfway to Las Ciel, seen in the above photo.  We started right beside the Nerja Caves, walked up a rugged road, then turned sharply right and hiked up past switch-backs ( seen in the below photo) to this glorious view. You can see Nerja beyond the ridge going down to the sea.
 Another day, we headed straight back from our apartment and went up to the overlook....we are so pleased!  The limestone footing is quite different from the granite we are used to in New Hampshire...but the way was well marked with red/white slashes.  We had bought a great topo map at a visitor center in Frigliana, a small "white village" just inland from Nerja.  Not too busy on any of these trails....nice and peaceful with very little chatter.
Right behind us is Frigliana, where we had hiked to a few days before....what a lovely way to explore a new area.  Put on the boots and sunscreen, get some great exercise then munch on the packed lunch while overlooking a fabulous view....can't get much better (and is an incentive to stay fit all year 'round!) 
Our first "away" excursion was La Ahambra in Granada....truly a stunning example of beautiful Moorish architecture.  An easy drive up from the coast, easily found site...then off we went to explore for hours.  Above is the reflecting pool (Mexuar) in the Nasrid Palace from the 13th century.

 Above 2 photos show the Palacio de Carlos V, square outside, round inside, beautiful spring flowers abound.

 Above you can see the intricate Moorish carvings which predominate in Spain....
 We climbed up the ramparts which had protected La Ahambra, past excavations and foundations of the original segment of the Mosque from the 13th century.
Then we had such a view of the Sierra Nevada....you can just see the white capped  mountains gleaming beyond Robert's smile.  We drove up to the ski fields later that day.....
 Inside the Palaces we explored the living areas as well as the refurbished Palace of Lions.


 After we drove up a twisty, winding road from Granada to the Sierra Nevada ski fields...very energetic and alive with all levels of skiers.....would love to come back to this and give it a try! 
Every few days we explored Nerja's old town...narrow pretty streets, good shops and food with the focal point being the Balcon d'Europa.  What a people place: above you can see the platform that juts out over the sea! 
Robert got to know the founder of Nerja,      !
 We posed for pictures under the archways.....and read about the history of the Balcon.   And how about a gelato in the plaza...italian for ice cream!!
The school kids had a special event cycling through the streets of Nerja....here they are racing past us!  Just a lovely pedestrian place to "hang out"....close to restaurants and tapas bars, closed to traffic and open to people!
One day we walked and hiked up the Rio Chillar which has its outlet in "old" Nerja (see map at beginning of this post), to a small hydroelectric dam, seen here behind Robert as he contemplates his next move around the water.  The interesting thing about this hike was that half the time we were wading in or leaping from one side of the winding river to the other....in the Spring it is a flood area, apparently. 
We had heard so much about Ronda....and were suitably impressed on our day excursion there.  The below video really captures the bridge (with the hair-raising history about how people were flung off of it when convicted of their various crimes) as well as the escarpment that protected the city from marauding barbarians.
A lovely walk down to the base of the bridge, with the sound of the waterfall softening the limestone edges...perfect sunlight for a nice picture!

 Of course we had our packed lunch...and what better place than on top of the bridge ramparts?   Robert looks satisfied....eh?
 Here is just a great ceramic image of Ronda....note the bridge and escarpment through the center.  To the left of the bridge is the bull ring....great excitement that day as people were lining up to see another display of gore and blood....NOT for us. 
 We wandered away from the bridge and escarpment, enjoying the old town with its beautiful churches, narrow streets and bazaars.   Below is a plaque on the main church Santa Maria de la Encarnacione Mayor which describes some of the history of Ronda, especially when the Mosque was "converted" into a church after the conquest, 1485 being a major turning point in time for all of Spain.
 The church itself was a lovely ochre colour, with an interesting bell tower.  The original bell was preserved near the church.
Winding streets lead us to a beautiful overlook to the north and the mountains....note the old cemetery below.
 A real change of pace...and something we almost missed!  El Torcal....twisted and torturous karst formations.  Amazing really beyond words.....we hiked through the valleys and ridges and oooohed and aaaahed.

Below is a great explanation of how the karst was formed....Robert, the geologist, was in thrall!


Beyond at the horizon you can just glimpse the Mediterranean sea
What can we say but.....just a great visit from Jason....!   He flew in to Malaga and then we were quickly on to the beaches...and to explore Nerja. So nice to get caught up on all our news....Robert and he walked the beaches and into the ocean for a dip!
 Jason is quite the chef....one morning Robert and he made up this wonderful strawberry and pancake breakfast, then one evening he created a dinner that we so enjoyed under the stars on the terrace. 

 Here is Jason, preparing a multi-grain garlic bread! Below one of our hikes at the top of the ridge behind our apartment.....Frigliana can be seen, one of Andalucia's many white villages.

Here's a typical tapas bar...many tiny bites of food with fresh fish, vegies, just yummy!
And of course each tiny bite of food had to have a FULL glass of wine.....Jason treated us royally!
We hopped from bar to bar...at this one we were surrounded by soccer banners! 
There was one British bar we really enjoyed going to....like coming into Coronation Street!
 There are 4 main beaches along the Nerja coast.....Burriana is by far the most "touristy" and we had some fun times exploring the boardwalk there. 

 And, yes this little fellow talked right back....Hola!   Hello!  How are you!
 A bit of the expat British influence, would you say??
 The Spanish learned well from their conquerors, the Romans....above is an aquaduct built over one of the many gullies which spill down from the Sierra Nevada to the Mediterranean Sea.
 One day we headed over to the Cueva Nerja...just amazing catacombes carved out of the limestone.  They are excavating further as 20,000 year old cave art has been found deep inside.
Alas, 4 weeks went past far too fast....every evening after dinner we would sit on the terrace and enjoy the setting sun, the beautiful ocean and the ever-changing skies.
Well, what do we have here?
Gibraltor, so interesting and worth a few days exploring....we walked it from one end to the other as well as an invigorating climb to the top.