Travels with Robert and Sue, Gonzo-style

Sunday, October 31, 2010

6 W's in New Hampshire- Whites: Water, Waterfalls, Wildcat, Willard, Washington!


Here's a great map with the 3 trails that we did out of PNVC in colour- Falls, Wildcat, Tuckerman to Harvard Cabin and over to the Auto Road on Raymond Path.

Talk about lucking into great Fall weather this year in the Whites!  After hitting hurricanes the last 2 Falls (and camping through it all last year with Janet!) we finally had warm, sunny days for our week.  The Volunteer stints went well for us, with me doing the meet and greet at PNVC (Pinkham Notch Visitor Centre) and Robert presenting his excellent "Geology of the Appalachians" Powerpoint in the evenings.  Such a wide sprectrum of people at this centre, from through-hikers in their mad-dash to finish the AT (Appalachian Trail) before the snow flies to newbies who want to know what all the excitement is!  Met up with over 500 people during the 4 days, sending them on their way with maps and "Hike Safe" advice.  Many are world travellers so we exchanged our favorite places to visit on many an occasion. The AMC staff is so well-informed and nice to work alongside....here's the website http://www.outdoors.org/ 
 We hit the trails every day after the morning stint, wanting to do some new hikes to add to our repetoire of knowledge. 
First 2 "W"'s were the nearby waterfalls and did we see water after the week-before rains:  Crystal Cascades just up from PNVC, an easy 10 minute trek for the drop-by visitors.  Then Thompson Falls (top picture), a great one hour loop from Wildcat parking lot, complete with environmental information boards along the way.  Later that day, we went to Glen Ellis Falls just down from PNVC off the #16, an easy hour loop to this gushing fall, seen at right.  The water was so high at this spot that the trail over to Wildcat was completely under water.
Second day, we did the Lost pond trail over to the third "W", Wildcat trail which leads up to Carter Hut.   Such a surprise, as I had always thought Lost Pond was an easy ramble ....it is a scramble, not a ramble! Should have realized this as it is part of the AT, always a challenge. When we got to the cut-off for Wildcat, we headed left up what the AMC staff call the Rocket Launcher.....straight up!  After an hour of this and taking the below picture looking over to the Presidential Range, decided we needed to head back for the evening stint at PNVC.  We thought we'd leap across Glen Ellis River to the highway and by-pass the Lost Pond scramble.....NOT!  The water was so high we had to retrace our path, scrambling once again.  And didn't see the elusive moose which hangs out at Lost Pond.  He had been spotted in the PNVC parking lot the day before, chasing his lady-love....did people leap into their cars as he sped past on the tarmac! Funny!
The last day at Pinkham Notch, we headed straight up Tuckerman Ravine to the fire road  which angles north-east to Harvard Cabin on the Huntington Ravine trail.  This winter cabin was not open yet but was set for the cold......propane tanks, solar collectors, a wood pile.....looks cozy and would be a nice destination on snow shoes for an overnight. After a leisurely lunch and pictures, the plan was to follow Huntington trail down to the Cutler River, cross over and then join up with Tucks trail and head back to PNVC for our evening stint...NOT again!  "W" as in Water strikes again!   The water was so high it was impossible, though Robert didn't think so!  After a quick exchange which included "groups don't split up and we mustn't hike alone!", we decided to go 1.8 miles over to the Auto Road on the Raymond Path....then back on the Old Jackson Road to PNVC.  It was a great triangle loop, with not a soul in sight for the 4 hours off the Tuckerman Ravine Trail.  Excellent time, highly recommended, total of  8 kms.!

After our great Thanksgiving week in Montreal and Kingston, visiting with friends and family we decided to drive back to PEI through New Hampshire, deciding to hike one of our favourites, Mt Willard, which starts out of Crawford Notch near the Highland Centre.  It was a quick hike up, only pausing at the Centennial Pool waterfall for a snack and water. 

Then, another half hour and we came out to the glorious view over Crawford Notch and Webster Cliff.....we sunned ourselves for over an hour, with groups and solo hikers coming and going. 
Then, just before going back down the trail,  we spotted Mt Washington to the north, glistening with snow and frost....Winter had come in the last week!   What a bonus to enjoy this beautiful area.....as well as the 6 "W"s, we enjoyed cool and sunny weather, few hikers and NO bugs!!!  Did see some grouse, pheasant and plenty of wild turkeys, though....!
We stayed at Shapleigh Bunkhouse next to the Highland Centre in Crawford Notch (below is the view across Saco Lake to the Crawford Depot), cooking up dinner in the self-catering kitchen and then heading over to the Centre to watch a movie about loons.  Great sleep, up early for a large buffet breakfast (AMC member price $70. for the 2 of us to sleep and eat breakie) then packed up for the long drive back to PEI....glorious, blazing colours through Maine on the airline highway to Calais. 
Wonderful time, perfect break for us 2 White Mountain addicts.....we will be back next Spring!

2010- Isles de la Madeleine Biking Adventure

What a glorious get-away!  After such a busy Summer with our B & B going full blast, many friends and family coming for golf weeks, doing the beaches and eating lobsters and mussels, we needed some time-away....!  We had heard from many of our B & B guests and Gonzo friends that the Isles de la Madeleine is a spectacular biking area.  I really was wanting to try out a modest biking adventure as I've heard of so many great tales from our friends and would love to join them some day. We booked online into a B & B on the Havre aux Maisons island, drove to the ferry, parked the car and walked on to the ferry with our fully-loaded bikes.....and what a gorgeous 5 hour cruise to this archipelago of islands in the middle of the Gulf of St Lawrence.  At one point, we could see PEI, Cape Breton and the Isles de la Madeleine from our boat.
Near L'Etang du Nord.


From ferry going past Isle D'Entree as sun starts to set

Arriving at 7:00 pm, we knew we had to hustle the 10 kms. from the ferry landing on Cap aux Meules to our B & B....and just as the sun was setting, we thankfully glided up to this beautiful welcoming home of Eva Marie's.....and ended up realizing that it was so similar to our own home!  150 years old, occupied by a doctor, our hosts running a few small businesses out of the home.....the B & B as well as a Fumoir for their veal.


As you can see in red on the above map, we did 2 loops on the Havre aux Maison island and a large one on the Cap aux Meules island.   The first day we went up the east coast of Havre aux Maisons, stopping for a picnic at Dune du Sud, then continued up almost to Isle aux Loups. There were many artisans along the way, including a glassworks place and a fromagerie which provided delicious cheese and herbed bread for our lunch.  Of course we stopped for beer and poutine on our way back.......showered and then strolled the beaches near our B & B as the sun went down. 

The second day we looped over to the west coast, with a herb garden and red cliffs being the highlight.  We ducked some rain, took lots of pictures and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves!

The last day was just so neat....we dropped off our gear at the Cap aux Meules motel near the ferry terminal  and then took off, lightly loaded and with sunshine blessing our cycling.  We biked straight across the island to L'Etang du Nord, toured some great artisans and the harbour.  We headed straight up the west coast, stopping at the Jardin des Herbes, then up to Fatima....and a Music Festival!  
What fun to walk amongst the families and musicians....and check out some interesting boats in the harbor....can you spot the pirate ship? Watch out, Johnny Depp!!
Well, I must say a big "Thank you" to Robert (below with our bikes and Havre aux Maison in the background) who kept our bicycles road-worthy and was so encouraging for me to keep on cycling during our travels....my first longish bicycle ride!  I am looking forward to many more excursions, both in Canada and across the pond!  And yes, my feet did touch the ground on several occasions!!