Travels with Robert and Sue, Gonzo-style

Friday, September 18, 2009

2007- Scotland and searching for McGregors!

After almost 200 years, I became the first McGregor to come back to our ancestral Highlands.  John McG., my g-g-g-grandfather, settled in Ontario after leaving Montreal and his parents Duncan and Jeannette, who came from Scotland and Ireland in the 1790's.
Driving from our B & B overlooking Loch Earn every day, we explored these Highlands for a week. What history here!  Evidence of the Highland Clearances abounded everywhere but the people who stayed behind have developed a strong and compelling culture.




First day we headed up to Killin, along Loch Tay and then over spectacular Ben Lawers full of  abandoned crofters' homes.  Glen Lyon and Fortingall all had hints of McGregor haunts.....





Another day we stopped at Balquidder Church and roamed the cemetery, with a pause at Rob Roy's gravesite.  Then on to Lochs Voil and Doine to see a McGregor chieftan's Invercarnaig gravesite from the 1700's. 




Loch Katrine was another great exploring day.....took a cruise on the Walter S. Scott coal-fired steamer, then drove along the loch to peak at Glengyle House near Stronmilchan and see the road to Rob Roy's Lookout on Loch Lomond.  Then we toured the Trossachs National Park, going through Aberfoyle.



Finally, we explored Dalmally and the Glen Orchy church, walking through yet-another cemetery....and found this wonderful McGregor stone from the 14 century!!



Another day we swooped around Loch Lomond, past Inverary Castle on Loch Fyne and Kilchurn Castle on Loch Awe, and then back through the Trossachs and Callander for a last night in our cozy B & B.
We reluctantly left this area of the Highlands and crossed mysterious, beautiful Rannoch Moor....a bagpiper played for us as we felt the centuries slip away into the 1700's.

Glencoe Pass was unforgettable, with its brooding mountains and the terrible heritage of the massacre from centuries ago.   Buachailletiva Mor and the 3 Sisters Mountains now have hikers from the West Highland Way but you are so conscious of the history in this pass. 
After spending some time in the Visitor's Centre, we headed for Fort William, a great gateway town.  Next day, hiked half-way up mighty Ben Nevis and looked down to the sea along Loch Linnhe.

Not the Highlands but close to our hearts was the St Andrew's area....views over the North Sea from the Castle was spectacular, then a walk through the cathedral area brought to life yet-another aspect of Scottish history.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

2007- Scotland's Castles!!

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