Travels with Robert and Sue, Gonzo-style

Thursday, February 07, 2013

2012- Brittany and Normandy, France

Back into France, our 3rd year in a row.....we feel very at home here, couldn't you guess?  Here we are in front of the St Malo coastline and below is the map of our travels.  It's been a bit of a marathon to drive up the west coast but we've never had more than a couple of hundred kms. at a stretch, pretty do-able for us Canucks used to such long distances in Canada.
After switching rental cars in the south of France near the Spanish border town of San Sebastien, we cruise up to Bordeaux...where the waterfront along the Garone River attracts everyone.
 
Water fun....just fascinating to watch this shallow pool fill up every 30 minutes to about i inch and see everyone walking, running, skipping, pedalling through it....here you can see the spray starting up the process and "young guy" Robert mesmerized by it!
The pilgrims have come through here for centuries on their way to Spain....Caminos criss-cross Europe extensively.  Hope to do the Camino de Santiago in the next few years.

 
 After by-passing La Rochelle and a chance to peak at my ancestor Bedard's home town from which they came in the 1650's.....drove right up into St Malo.    What a gorgeous coastal city, perched on volcanic outcrops and surveying all the north Atlantic.
St Malo.....a city of surprises!    When Jason was visiting us in Nerja he and I set up the surprise of the trip for Robert!!   I don't think Robert will ever say "no" to going into a souvenir shop ever again....ask him the story!   
A glorious time shopping, eating, taking pictures....and best of all....talking!  What a great family reunion! 
A model of St Malo, such an historically-rich sea-faring town.
And on to Dinan, Brittany....Jason helped me get the luggage to our new rental and then back for a final meal before he and Robin left on the TGV for Paris and their own adventure!  The 2 following maps are a good reference for where we were during this mid-April week. 
Dinan, France with the river Rance and apartment at the top on the ancient street coming up to the castle walls.....the perimeter of them can be clearly seen.
 And a map of the whole area.....St Malo and Dinard at the top, Dinan in the centre....
Dinan, a beautiful french town full of history on the Riviere Rance.  William the Conqueror stayed here just before he went on to capture the prize of England in 1066.   In the above video modern day rowers train for their next race....  Below is the entrance to our street as it climbs steeply up the hill....and yes, we did drive up there! 
Lovely shops along the way, with warm Spring weather opening up the windows....
Un verre de vin rouge, candles and a beautiful salad to settle into our beautiful apartment from the 14th century. 
We never got tired of looking at this view down our street....rue de Vielle Fort.   And you can see that Spring is coming with the light green leaves on the sheltering trees.....
New flowers are planted....and there is warmth in the air!  Here is one of Dinan's castle entrances complete with a modern-day museum.
 Looking down the Rance river from the castle walls...
 The clock tower was a good reference point to orient us in the town......
One day, we did a long walk down the Rance River towards Dinard and St Malo...cyclists, joggers, sailors all enjoying the beautiful weather....had a picnic here and enjoyed the sailboats cruising past. 
This area has such  beauty...and so wonderful to see local people and their families enjoying outings here.   
Another day we walked upriver to the little town of LeHon near one of 20 locks along the river.   Explored an 11th century abbey which had a great surprise of a Shakespeare play being rehearsed in the cloister!  Tout en anglais!
 The abbey inside was so serene and this 11th century baptismal font was so lovely....

 Beautiful arched bridge of LeHon with the Abbey in the back ground, a walk up to the castle overlooking the town and river then a peaceful walk back to Dinan along this horse trail...
Another day we took a drive out to the coast near St Cast de Guildo....watched a spectacular storm sweeping across the water and smooshing us with rain while we munched our picnic in the car.
Beautiful fallen-down castle and beaches boats at low tide....
On the way back we stopped at Fort La Latte, then got caught again in another wild storm!
Exploring the many celtic sites as can be seen in the map below.  

Brittany is just filled with druid cemetaries and standing stones...the allee couverte video below was particularly intriguing....
 A druid guarding the site....!
And of course, we found an O'Murphy from Ireland here....or rather, a nice plaque in his honour for having been Deputy Mayor of Crehen from 1852 to 1879!
Difficult to leave this lovely town of Dinan....on to stunning Mont St Michel which can be seen from many miles away.  Tide was low when we got there....and enjoyed exploring so much! 
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/80   One of the first sites to be inscribed by UNESCO back in the late 1970's.....
Some great concerts coming up, performed in the castle of Mont St Michel....
A pretty field of rape flowers, with a windmill and Mont St Michel way beyond.....
What an amazing side trip out to Bayeux to see the world-famous tapestry depicting William the Conquerors journey to make England his and to found the monarchy which reigns to this day...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayeux_Tapestry
It was woven on linen with hand-dyed wool between 1070 and 1080 by English seamstresses comissioned by William's half-brother, the Bishop of Bayeux.   70 meters long and 50 cms. wide,  it stretches under glass and around a corner through the museum.
 The most famous scene shows Halley's comet which frightened the superstitious people in England and intimidated Harold into second-guessing his claim to the throne after Edward, the Confessor passed on in 1066.
Etratat cliffs- a lovely Summer retreat for Monet!   here is a video taken from the pebble beach looking north-east along the Normandy shoreline.
And from the other end of the cliffs looking back to the town of Etratat....seen beyond the ridge.
Juno Beaches, Normandy
 -the monuments, beaches and ocean. 
We picked up many of these shells and shared them with friends whose family had fought in WW2.

Above are a few pictures from landing day on June 6, 1944.   The first picture shows troops on Juno Beach, with the first building liberated by Canadian troops which is now a memorial display.   Now there is an Inukshuk standing nearby to welcome all visitors to Juno Beach.
Here is a video which shows the flags of the nations that started the liberation of France on June 6, 1944....and subsequently all of Europe.   The video then shows the sweep of Juno beach and how exposed it was with few cliffs to shelter the troops once they landed.
 To the north-east towards Dieppe were the beaches which Great Britain stormed and to the south-west were the beaches where the Americans landed.  
 Above and below pictures show the Place du North Nova Scotia Highlanders. 
One of 3 huge cemeteries directly behind Juno Beach.  You can see the ocean beyond, about a kilometer away, and this area is where the troops would've have moved inland after they landed at Juno Beach and the 3 villages on this 10 km. stretch of Normandy Beach.  Many nationalities and religions are represented in this Canadian cemetery.
Sherman tank....this was uncovered by  huge storm 10 years ago, having been imbedded in sand for over 50 years during the landing at Juno.  While watching the video take time to pause it as there are many plaques on the tank from various Canadian regiments which took part in the landing.  
Above shows just a few of the plaques on the tank close-up, from northern Nova Scotia as well as Saskatchewan.
Pegasus Bridge area where several parachutists floated down in the dark of the night June 5 to secure this vital link for the Allied forces.  It's been removed from the river it crossed and is now in a nearby memorial park, seen in the second picture.

Another day, we drove from our coastal apartment in Normandy inland to Giverny and Monet's house and gardens...this video shows the tulips and other bulb flowers in full bloom, quite the contrast to my visit there in 2007 with friends Linda and Gerdien in late Fall.   Here are some pictures from my visit with them to the Vimy memorial in northern France that year....dedicated to the fallen Canadians in their assault on this ridge in 1916.
 The grieving mother overlooking the plains to the north from Vimy Ridge.
Giverny, France
Walking through the extensive gardens....gorgeous and lush.
 The famous Japanese Bridge over the lily pond.....
Gorgeous gardens originally planted by Monet and the subject of many of his paintings....
Touring through Monet's home again....spectacular colours and with a strong influence shown from Japanese art.   Have you read "The Hare with the Amber Eyes"?