2014 Camino de Santiago- A Walking Meditation

After spending time with friends in Santander who helped us enormously in our preparations for the Camino, we got to Burgos on an Alsa bus after 2 major events on the road...a huge bus window blew out in heavy side winds about 30 minutes out of Santander and we had to pull into a small town.  About an hour before a new bus came...!

Then over the Puerto of Paramo de Masa we had heavy snow...almost didn't make it to the top, dangerous coming down.  

The canyons near Quintanilla are stunning.   From the bus station we walked to the Burgos cathedral...beautiful!   

And saw our first Camino symbol, SUCH a welcome sight! 

Then we walked 10 kms of Camino to Tardajos...lucked into sunny weather....cool though with high winds. Enjoying a nice pub, watching the news...weather looks wild tomorrow.  Woke to 4 inches of snow after a battering snowstorm overnight. Wow...what a start! Our albergue host, Francisco, upon hearing that it was our FIRST day of walking the Camino, asked to join us for an hour of walking.   Of course....!  The first of many kindnesses along the Camino, the Way....there are many hospitaleros (volunteers) and many are monks who volunteer to host at the albergues.

 Almond trees in blossom and snow....

Early morning silhouettes in the snow....and joyful faces as we head off on the Camino, the WAY....

We are finding that the  Camino is a moving social community...since joining the Camino at Burgos, we are keeping close to a 20 km a day pace and have been enjoying seeing other peregrinos (pilgrims), getting to know them over meals and at the albergues (hostels).  As we walk through the little villages the local people all greet us with Buen Camino!  

Our Trabajos albergue host, Francisco, said that he estimates that at this time of year there are 50-60 people coming on to the Camino every day, starting at various locations. June- August about 500 people start each day.  Seems like a high number so will continue to verify this amount. Imagine....

Day 3- Hontanas to Itero de la Vega- 21 kms. (Total 51 kms)  Still cold but starting to leave the snow-capped mountains to the north as can be seen in the above picture.  The 7 hours of walking included 2 big rolling hills with great views back to Hontanas where we stayed last night , Café con leche in Castrjeriz, then on to Itero de la Vega. 

Meeting lovely people, all ages, all cultures...common language English but enjoying using my Spanish in small villages with locals. 

Above, the Hontanas Albergue Puntido (you can see the little bridge over the street) AND the temperature at ONE C.!

Approaching Casterojeruz- beautiful cathedral, castle on hilltop, rude sign and coffee!  And then leaving Castrojeruz, a great bridge.

Above, demanding steep hill (12%) looking back eastwards to the bridge and Casterojiz, then over a short plateau to this stunning view westward....

Arches of Monastery  San Anton above....

Above, Map of Palencia province and Camino route ending in Leon. The UNESCO World Heritage symbol is at the bottom right.    Walked 20 kms. to Itero de Vega, very poor infrastructure, the Municipal Albergue Igleaias, quite deserted but found a good restaurant near the entrance to this village.  Met up with S. and J. who we first met in Hontanas.  Should've stayed in the attached "private" albergue for a few more euros.

Today we went from Itero de la Vega to Publicion de Campus, 17 kms, enjoying chats with S. and J. who we met 2 days ago in Hontanas. We went through Fromista , had lunch in front of the 10th century church, San Martin,  enjoying a tour there.

We continued on to Publicion where S. had stayed 2 years ago.  We were greeted with Great hugs, 2-cheeked kisses, bread and chorizo salami and a bottle of vino tinto. And what a meal after....!!  ;-)  The nearby albergue portion was unheated including cool showers but the private "hotel" was lovely....more and more albergues are combining rustic with "upscale" (6 euros vs 9 euros)

Spring flowers are shyly coming out and the fields are all planted  with grains and grasses.... There are many hermitage shelters along the way, crosses, statues of saints, information boards for canals, roman bridges, flora and fauna, particularly birds. There are a huge variety of Camino signs...carved, painted, modern and old. Crocus, daffodils, hyacinth and tulips are found near the Camino signs. 

There are such nice surprises for us along the Way....the daffodils and narcissus are blooming beside the Way's symbols.

Well, it had to happen! Rain, the first since the start March 25...  Need to update my raingear as the umbrella and poncho are NOT doing the job...however, feeling good as my old body adjusts to the daily workout.  This morning, the pack actually felt light!!!

Stopped over in Mazarife, funky Albergue de Jesus, J. offering to find groceries and make up a meal for us....such fun to share the preparation and then eat it at the nearby bar.   OK hostel but the showers were creepy...

An adventure to get to Leon and the Benedectine Monastery....quite a shock to be in a BIG city after roaming the rural countryside.   But what a cathedral!!

Interesting sleeping arrangements.....2 men's dorms, a women's dorm and....the married area!  After careful reflection, the monk from France decided that Robert and I, with 17 years of conjugal bliss, could sleep in the married area!  Very sweet...the bathrooms were shared though!!   ;-)  The monk and nun arranged for our laundry to be washed and dried, 3 people sharing 8 euros for this service.  Fresh and sweet...

Kitchen area truly a community spot, meeting all sorts of people preparing their meals.   One person caught my eye as he carefully peeled and cut a HUGE red pepper to add to his vegie repas.  It turned out that I would cross J.'s path several times along the Way, including a huge welcome hug in Santiago....more to come.  

Holy week is starting and so we were entertained by these wonderful musicians...

Beautiful piazzas as we left Leon...and found me a friend!

Stayed in Villares de Orbigo (18 kms.) at a fantastic Albergue, new since 2011 in a 200 year old farmhouse, totally renovated. Hosts Bethlem and Pablo so welcoming..and when we discovered everything was shut (bar, groceries) they offered to make us a full meal!  Excellent lentil soup, meat on the side,  rice, fried eggs...custard cake for postra. 

Below shows Bethlem and Pablo in the next stage of renovation, their own living quarters.  Our sleeping area and the kitchen were perfect...stay here!!

Really enjoying the camaraderie in the Albergues at night and it is totally wonderful to see people along the Way who we met a few days before.  Here's a few pix from "hostel reality"....this is the Astorga albergue, San Janvier, near the cathedral.  Well run, clean albergue but STRICT...enforced by a fellow we came to call Napoleon.  Stayed 2 nights for 9 euros each night and enjoyed Astorga for my "rest day". 

Hostel life continues to be fantastic...a community of beautiful souls!

Below shows alot...someone is massaging another, the "blister lady" is treating someone's feet, others are messaging on their devices.

How to treat a blister.....!   Needle through the blister, leave the thread tails on and then remove after 2 days!  Et voila!!   Below, how to dry your boots, a most precious commodity.  Feet and footwear are the top topics....hiking boots? hiking shoes? sport sandals?  Even saw flip-flops as people tried to air their blistery feet....

Yes, that is a power bar with all our devices charging up.....WiFi is found all along the Camino, a charged experience!

People need their private space.  Here is how C. created her snuggly "home"....love this.

Did I mention the wet 18 km walk today to Astorga...lots of rain and MUD.  Here peregrinos stop at David's and Juan's tarp-covered shelter and we enjoy hot chocolate and coffee on Majeda a Ventura, at 925 meters.  Such a welcome sight and good atmosphere...

Rolling hills down to tricky stream crossings but enjoyed the views of the foothills of the mountain range (way  beyond)   In Astorga, we found out there was 3 feet of snow in them thar mountains. 

 Always the yellow arrow to keep us on track and never in doubt.   Wonder if the ancients had this sort of guidance?

And, really, the most BIZARRE sites...below is a monument to a pilgrim from 2005.  

Above is the Crucero de S. Torribo which overlooks San Justo de Vega, and then on to Astorga. 

Here is me in Astorga with a Peregrino who watches over us.  Big news about all the snow from Astorga to Sarria, stages 21- 26 (146 kms.)  Sad to miss this section but the ol' knees couldn't stand the twisting and turning.  

So many stories as the Camino adventures spread like wild-fire!  One story...an elderly Korean couple got stuck in  3 feet of Pyrenees snow coming from St Jean Pied du Port (start of Camino Francés)  in early March and had to be rescued at 9:30 pm by the Roncesvilles fire department .  They left their tent behind....J. passed it when he started the Camino on March 10.

A little montage of Astorga, such a beautiful town near Galicia province ...Roman sites, a garden where a synagogue once stood beside the Roman wall, churches and cathedrals, Palacio designed by Gaudi....this video shows the entrance to Astorga.  Click on the arrow and then "full-screen".

Here I am with people I met back in the Leon monastery....

As you enter Astorga you are greeted by this Peregrino standing opposite one of several churches....

There are about 4 Roman archeological sites.....

 Excavated foundations of the original Roman habitation....

 And the Roman baths underneath the church and the museum...

Fascinating view of the original Roman walls (very similar to Lugo's Roman wall) which surround Astorga and the garden which commemorates a Jewish synagogue.   

This pilgrim from the 14th century shows the spirit of the Camino!   And yes!  you can ride the Camino on horseback as well as cycle it!

Astorga is a great "rest day' town....after cafe con leche we all posed in front of the City Hall, adjusted our packs and then bid "adieu".

 
Off to the train station taking it to Sarria, bypassing a mountain range, stunning train ride through mountains and gorges, well worth this diversion...planning to return in a few years time to do this stretch....on to Robert volunteering at a farm!

Tomorrow we start our 8 days from Sarria to Santiago, then on to Finisterra.  If you start at Sarria which many people do, for the last 120 kms., you must get 2 sellos (stamps) a day on your passeport peregrino to qualify for your credencial in Santiago.  Here's the bridge, church and lovely signpost as you walk out of Sarria

Beautiful walk into Portomarin, now into Galicia province (22 kms. from Sarria)   

Gorgeous small lanes, Roman roads very evident underlying all roads, much water as this is a very rainy area, walking through small hamlets, slowly descending 350 meters to the river at Portomarin. 

Love this overlap of cultures in Europe....Celtic, Roman, Judaic, Moorish, Christian....if you look carefully, you can see hints of this everywhere.  

We were faced with a huge set of stairs at Portomarin which brought us up from the river where this town had originally been located.  A river-dam forced the town to re-locate on top of the bluff, stone by stone.  Municipal albergue was 6 euros, very clean and relatively modern with a great kitchen but NO cooking implements or eating crockery.  Does this mean I need to bring my camping gear??!!  Something to consider...next time.   A huge group of 120 Spanish students descended on the Albergue....very well-behaved and active with their outings.   Here's their boots....

By 10:00 pm, lights out and everyone asleep...actually was able to sleep in the next morning. Very impressed....below are J. and I at sunrise at the steps to Portomarin.

Found a great grocery store in Portomarin, settled into a park and had us a picnic.  Fun....
Explored the town and viewed this beautiful church...

This below picture really symbolizes for me the spirit of the Camino....meeting new pilgrims, sharing a vino tinto, watching the sunset....here, J. and I enjoy meeting up with the Irish gals, C. and L.   at Ventas de Neron who were enjoying their bottle of vino tinto and invited us to join them.....

Above shows the sunset at Ventas de Neron with peregrinos enjoying the bar and meal inside.  We stayed at the nearby Alb. de Molar for 10 euros....very nice and clean but no atmosphere.

Sunrise on the Ventas de Neron church near our albergue....as the 4 of us left together for Santiago.

Total of 24 kms. into Palais de Rei which included an overnight stop in Ferreiros which had 2 albergues, great restaurant in the "private" one...got caught up on the ever-present WiFi.   Stayed at La Caruna Albergue in Palais de Rei for 10 euros...treated myself to a cerveza (or two!!) after settling into our hostel.  

J. decided to cook up a great meal for us all in Palais de Rei....here's the groceries she and C. found and then all of us enjoyed our special meal.  All for a total of 10 euros....shared, that's 2.5 euros each for the dinner.  We were able to offer the left-overs to a Norwegian couple who had it for lunch the next day.   Now THAT'S economy!

Here's a few scenes from our walks in Galicia...including animal life.

 Can you spot my buddy in the above picture??!

Yes, that is the 100 km marker....we are starting to roll! 

 Another strange monument....full of people's discarded clothes.  Later on, we saw a "Xmas" tree full of tinsel and ornaments...below picture is one of my favorites.  Galicia is just beautiful and lush...

Beautiful and changing scenes along the Way....especially in Galicia.

Bridges predominated along the Way....usually before or after a town which were located on a stream or river.

Inevitably we stopped for a cafe con leche around mid-morning...above you see J. and J. who we had crossed paths with since Hontanas and Leon....THAT is the spirit of the Camino!

After Palais de Rei, walked the 22 kms. to Melida.  

Sang "When I'm 64 when we spotted this marker...

Now, here is a story!  Does this picture tell it all?

Yes, this is pulperia....!  Melida is famous for this delicacy...and yes!  it was fantastically good. 

6 of us out for this meal.

Then!  So good to see A.M. who we first met in Astorga as she had trekked a 30 km day to catch up with us.  What an effort....here we all are at sunset in Melida.

Galicia is truly beautiful with such varied scenery....here is a seed and produce "house" which prevents the rodents and snow from taking the hard-earned harvest.   You can see the village church and cemetery beyond. 

 Yet another meal...gotta keep up those calories.  Lost 7 pounds during my 3 weeks on the Camino.   Beer and wine helps boost the calories....so they say!!

 Many masseuse places along the Way....very needed, I guess. 

Lots of peregrino symbols and images....

My birth year....a tradition to have a picture of the year you were born....below we enjoy the Camino dos Ocas albergue (9 euros) 5 kms. past Arzua near Calzuda. ( make sure to take groceries from Arzua as the kitchen as this albergue is very well equipped) 

Evening meal at a picnic table with J. and A.M. and then early start at sunrise, heading for Labrodilla and a good rest before our entry into Santiago.

And guess who popped up in front of us, fresh from his farm volunteering??  Walked with us during our last 2 days before Santiago...!   Very nice....

Luxurious stay in Labrodillo including a candle-lit dinner....then 12 kms. towards Santiago.

Always the Camino arrow, this one very sweet....then, the Mont de Gozo overlook!

What a thrill to see this above monument....surrounded by several student groups who were doing the last 100 kms.

Below is a stunning sculpture showing a hand representing all routes going to Santiago from the rest of Europe.  

Now in the 'burbs of Santiago, enjoying a lunch of baguette and fromaggio....my trusty knapsack proudly displayed.

A long walk through Santiago into the "old town"....and a joy to see the cathedral!!

Here's a few gems from our 3 day visit in 2012...

Over to the Ofica de Peregrino for the credencial certificate....I cried...then smiled.

Oh yay!!!  Even the horse is rearing with excitement!

Always time for a little sightseeing and shopping....a great shop near the cathedral.

That evening, to a pre-Easter Mass in the Santiago cathedral and the swinging incense burner....and a video showing how the monks make it swing!

And the magic 0 Kms.!!

Beautiful wood carving and painting at our albergue, San Janvier, in Astorga.  This shows the final part of the Camino, from Cruz de Ferro until Santiago.

Fromista to Leon, then Astorga...

Roncesvalles to Pamplona to Burgos and Castrojerez...

This is what I think of when I remember my Camino de Santiago pilgrimage....walking beside the peaceful waters on an old Roman road, a "walking meditation".