2011- France: Provence and north to Paris.....just lovely!

Wonderful to be back in our very favourite part of the world....Provence!!!

A whirlwind.....flight from Tel Aviv, up through London and an overnight..... and then zoom! to Nice, France.   Maybe we should've have just took a swim from one side of the Mediterranean Sea to the other!  The above video shows some fabulous scenery near St Tropez and back along the coast...warm and breezy.

 After settling into our apartment near Toulon in St Mandrier Sur Mer, we were ready to explore this area on the south coast of Provence!  First up, the off-shore islands.....one day we took a small ferry to Les Embriez and walked the length and breadth of it.   Above is the gravesite of the founder of this island, Paul Ricard, and below is a video which shows where we had a beautiful picnic and did some wonderful beach-combing, picking up sea glass of many colours.

Another day, we traveled to the other side of Toulon, taking the ferry to Les Perquerolles islands.  We walked from one end to the other, exploring the beaches, the forests and enjoying yet-another picnic.  After a much-too-close encounter with some processional caterpillars, we checked out this lovely beach.....    

Below shows Robert walking past a beautiful old window from one of the old cottages. 

Another day, we drove up Mont Faron which overlooks the city of Toulon, seen above.  On the other side of the harbor is Ste Mandrier Sur Mer and the location of our apartment...Robert found his first cache as a geocacher and from the look on his face, he is thrilled!

A truly great area to explore was the coast to the west of Toulon, near Sanary Sur Mer, with an extensive park along the Mediterranean coastline as seen above.  Cap Sicie held a wonderful thrill for us.....we watched a paragliding club while we munched on our lunch!   Beyond the glider, on the peninsula, you could probably just see where our apartment is located.

And how about a game of petanque?   Lots happening in the late afternoons, with many groups gathering to socialize and see who is the champ for the day.

Truly a lovely area which we would highly recommend....and now we head inland to Lourges for a completely different experience surrounded by fields of lavender.  Just beyond you can see our apartment in the villa on the right.

One of our main aims was to go back to the Gorge de Verdon....which we enjoyed so very much last year when we stayed 3 days in Chasteuil.   This time we did a day trip from Lourge up to the south rim.....and as you can see in the above video, the view back to Lac Moustiere St Marie  and then east along the gorge was quite breath-taking.  With frequent stops, we drove along the south rim, doing a long walk at one point which took us to some great overlooks.

We continued to do some geocaching which took us to many different "hidden" locations, off the beaten track adding some adventure to our pastoral experience.  One day we tracked down some caches along an abandoned rail line, inside some tunnels.....meeting a local person and spotting an old Roman road.  Another day, we trekked up to the top of the hill which had a monastery....and had quite the laugh when we surprised some local fellows who were working out on the fitness circuit....ask Robert about this!!   Another search took us up to the top of another hill and we stumbled upon an old druid-like burial site complete with stairs going down into a pit.
We explored a nearby limestone cliff-dwelling, complete with waterfall, fabulous flower gardens and school groups which were enjoying the local history with their teachers.  

One full day's excursion was the Theoret Abbey, associated with the Senanque abbey which we saw last year.  Stunning architecture, evidence of industrious monks over centuries of devotion, a wonderful tour.

After such a lovely week exploring the Lourges area, we drove over to Bonnieux, in the heart of the Luberon.  The above video is taken amongst the gorgeous cherry tree orchards, all in full bloom.  At first you are able to see Lacoste and then a peek at Mont Ventoux before stopping at the view of Bonnieux.   Both these "villages perchee" or perched and were originally protected by castle walls in medieval times.  And doesn't Robert look delighted with a cold local beer after our 5 kms. walk....and can you spot Bonnieux in the background?
Our apartment in Bonnieux was 4 stories high, built right into the castle wall with the kitchen floor from the 12th century!  The 3rd floor was our bedroom overlooking the narrow street one way and with the living room looking over the Luberon mountains to the west.  Talk about atmosphere in this lovely dwelling! The video shows the view to the north and Mont Ventoux and then some pictures from the village itself.  The turret was the outside of our apartment!

Bonnieux itself was just so satisfying but who could blame us for wanting to explore this classic area of Provence?  One day we drove the twisty canyons down to Peter Mayes village (of "A Year in Provence" fame) Lourmarin.  On the way back, drove through Au Soucis and Buoux, villages on the edge of limestone cliffs.   The next day we visited Rousillon.....the ochre, red, orange, yellow cliffs were just stunning and the walk through the park very pretty.

Of course, the nearby Lavender Museum was a "must" visit, the same we visited when with Marsha last year....here you see me loaded up with teas, soaps, creams and lovely goodies made from lavender.   As well, the following 3 pictures show one of the main olive oil production sites in Menerbes.  I just love the ancient olive tree growing out of the castle wall! 

What better way to experience the "real" Provence than in the daily markets which are held in different villages?  These local singers entertained the market goers, with their version of Edith Piaf....and off we went to select delicious cheeses, olives, fruit and vegies from the nearby farmers.   And yes, strawberries were ripening and a vendre!  Headed out for Lacoste again....here's Robert under the Marquis de Sade museum sign while I pose with Monsieur le Sade's statue....ooooh, the stories in this town.  Now owned by Christian Dior....hmmm.

And have we mentioned the overwhelming presence of the Romans in Europe....??!  Above is the Pont Julien which incorporates part of a Roman aqueduct with parts of a Roman road exposed nearby....classic design, quickly recognizable.  Another day, we headed up to Fontaines des Vauclose, in awe of the gush of water coming down from the "secret source" at the base of a massive cliff....

After coffee sitting beside the torrent, we walked up beside the river, eventually sharing a picnic with a great view, I'd say!  millions of gallons of water rushing past us....so dramatic!  The day ended with a lovely evening with Brigitte and Gils, who were our hosts as John was traveling.  Red wine, olives and cheese helped loosen our brains and tongues for some good conversation en francais!
Our last day we treated ourselves to lunch at Le Fournil, a restaurant tucked into the base of a cliff in Bonnieux....what a wonderful way to celebrate our week in Bonnieux!

 On our way to our last full week in Provence we just had to stop again at Mont Ventoux, covered in snow ....and started a good steady climb up its south flank....we kept getting peeks at this iconoclastic mountain which broods over Provence.

Chamaret, a tiny village in the north-west of Provence, was our last week in this wonderful area of France.  In the below video you can see the tower of Chamaret while one of the local farmers cultivates the springtime lavender field.   So pastoral and gentle.....

 

.We had the good fortune to be able to use our hosts bicycles.  What a treat to be able to explore the area by bike!   We literally went north-south-east and west, enjoying narrow roads that had very little traffic.....until July when the Tour de France was setting out from St Paul de 3 Chateaux!  Above I am delighted with my find of the "official" TDF souvenir shop!  On our way back we were happy to see these 2 horseback riders enjoying one of the back-country paths.  Bonjour!  Comment ca va?!

Our apartment, was a fully-renovated 1000 year old building, just charming and sweet, with all modern amenities.  Our hosts, Maggi and Andrew, were a 5 minute walk away where they lived in their separate villa.  We enjoyed chatting with them and yes!   Robert went swimming one day in our hosts pool....check out the Mont Ventoux range beyond!   The weather has been almost perfect.....and this is early April!

Mimosa vines starting to bloom...springtime in Provence is the absolute best! 

Here we are about to start on one of our day cycling adventures with our host Andrew's villa behind us.....Grignan, Grotto Rocomado, MontSejour sur Lauzon, vinyards about to sprout, check out the ancient vine below....just so nice to explore!!

One day we decided to go into Vaison La Romaine for their market....and lucked into this great Roman archeological site.   Check out the latrines!  

Above are a few local fellas in Chamaret.....whiling away the time below a gorgeous sundial. One afternoon we climbed up the Tower of Chamaret, gazing out at the countryside below....and this bell just rang out so wonderfully!  In the video you can see our apartment directly below as well as our hosts villa just beyond the outskirts of the village (with pool).

 Now into the last part of our France adventures, we head north....first stop is Lyons, so much like Quebec City, a fabulous World Heritage site.  When you open this link, it shows a multitude of pictures and videos.
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/872/
 Climbing 100's of stairs to the top of the escarpment overlooking the Rhine River, we are thrilled to see first a beautiful cathedral, Fourviere....and then an enormous, perfectly preserved Roman amphitheater from 2nd c. BC Imagine, 2000 years later, people come to enjoy outdoor spectacles, this time without the lions!
We walked down the steep escarpment to the "vieille ville" below and enjoyed a wonderful festival, complete with dancing, singing and great food!

An excellent side trip was to the saltworks of Arc et Senans, another World Heritage site.
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/203
Fascinating tour deep under the village, showing us where they had mined salt so many years ago, using a complex well and waterwheel system to bring up the brine water.
The last picture is one of the original salt pans, where the salt was boiled out of the brine water, then shoveled by hand into nearby wheelbarrows.  Such intensive work to mine out such a precious commodity.

Nearby Dole had some lovely architecture....and yet another Spring festival....it's party time in France!!

 Wending our way into an entirely new area for me, Alsace, we spent 3 lovely days in Strasbourg, another World Heritage site.  http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/495
As you can see from below, I adopted the traditional costume and met some local roosters!

 One evening, we watched the sun set on the beautiful cathedral's front facade and enjoyed hearing the organist practice for the upcoming Easter weekend.

Strasbourg is definitely a place to come back and see again...the city centre is compact and just laden with many historical complexes lining the river banks.  Walking from our apparthotel was so convenient and picturesque.....
Heading west toward Paris, we stayed at a lovely B&B, former mill, near 2 World Heritage sites.
One day we toured to Provins, a medieval village which has such interesting shopping vaults, developed in the 13th century and was one of the main trading-fair cities.  http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/873   We walked up to this lovely church overlooking Provins...and flying a Canadian flag!  Quelle surprise!

Another day, we headed to Reims  http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/601
and thoroughly enjoyed this beautiful cathedral, a major 13th century example of Gothic architecture.  This is where many Kings of  France were crowned, including Charles, champion of Joan of Arc.  Below is an odd picture of the cathedral with Robert enjoying one of the freaky scaffoldings!

The rose windows are spectacular, reminiscent of Chartres Cathedrals....but called the "3 sisters"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_Battle_of_the_Marne 
In 1914, 2 million soldiers fought in several fronts along the Marne River with 500,000 either dead or wounded.....On the way to Paris, we had a sobering stop at the memorial to the battle of the Marne, between Sept. 5 and 13, 1914.   What a terrible waste of life....and the wars continue on.....

Before getting into Paris,  we spent a half-day at spectacular Fontainbleu, called " house of the centuries"  http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/160   Until Louis XVI and favored by Napolean, this was the hunting lodge and main entertainment palace of the french kings who all transformed it in their own architectural styles since the 13th century. 

Now, into the City of Lights....4 days in Paris...in the Springtime!  After dragging in the luggage in the Latin Quartier apartment (the locals were not amused!), we dropped off the car rental and walked back, reveling in the sunshine and warmth.  Paris, here we come.....again!  Now, its your turn to work a bit....how many of these familiar sites can you identify....or have visited??! (Answers at the end!)

Can you spot Robert above....in with the flowers?

Did we walk miles in this beautiful city.....And what better way to enjoy Paris than with friends....our wonderful traveling buddies, Sandra and Verne!   We enjoyed lunch, strolling along the Seine, getting caught up on our news!

And who could this new buddy be, just above?  How about a masseuse in front of the Sorbonne University?!  Robert took a video...and ended up ogling a motorcycle!  In the below picture, you can see us enjoying the fountain in front of the Louevre .......

Many of our dinners were actually picnics in the Jardin Luxembourg, watching the locals playing boules,  enjoying their children in the kids' park as well as sailing tiny sailboats on the pond.....what a people place!

Our last night we joined the local Parisiens as well as the tourists on the banks of the Seine....http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/600   We watched the romantic couples around us...and saw one young lady almost get launched into the Seine!
We drank a bottle of wine, ate KFC and potato salad, finishing off with chocolate eclairs.....do we LOVE Paris!! Next day, took a super-fast metro to the CDG airport right from the center of the Latin Quartier serenaded by an accordionist.....and zoom!!!   Off to Canada we went!